Has anyone purchased an aftermarket "match grade" trigger for M3 or Panthera? They are apparently available from Daniele Rizzotto (Facebook and Youtube) as well as mubhaur (AGN and Youtube). If so, please let us all know what you think. Also, is an FX match grade trigger available from any other source?

Anyone know how Douger is doing health wise ? i have not been keeping up with this forum due to working 2 jobs, i am now done with my(the most time consuming) truck driving job till april 2024, any way just was wondering how he is doing , (prayers still sent his way) i have had few good deals with Douger, hope all is well, roger.

After a long day shooting numerous high end airguns, I ended my day with a Crossman HFT challenger.
What an amazing experience to shoot this gun as prepared by @Airgun-Revisions
Simple
Quiet
Smooth
Comfortable to shoulder
Spot on accurate
And
It’s not an air hog

I posted yesterday regarding my Talon P and got a question about the moderator.

Also posted about the rifle here earlier this month.

I ran the test on it today.
The video is plagued with wind noise and not really worth watching. The question was how well does it work?

I shot three shots with the moderator on the gun and then three without it. Here is the audio comparison.


Here is that audio slowed down to 1/8 speed and cropped to only the muzzle blast for each shot.


Here is the comparison graph of the signatures.

The RMS power for the moderated gun was 2.2 dBs less than the RMS power level for the unmoderated gun. That may not sound like much but your ears are telling you otherwise, aren't they?

That 2.2 dBs represents a TRUE 40% reduction in the total noise output from the moderator. That is quite good. Add to that the fact the signature (on the graph you can see it) is substantially shifted to the lower end of the spectrum. The net result is quite pleasant to the ear.

This is a very good moderator.
It is about 52mm by 91mm. It is very light. This image shows the moderator disassembled and laid out as it was disassembled top to bottom left to right.

The unit contains starting from top left moving in columns.

• attachment adapter
• clover shaped foam baffles (3)
• solid washer with a 8.2mm bore hole
• circular foam baffle
• another clover shaped foam baffle
• circular foam baffle
• endcap in the form of a cup with a 9.3mm bore hole
• moderator body

This moderator works much like the Weirauch/Huggette designs with two or three large chambers and sound absorbing baffles. The total volume of the moderator is about 196 cc which is considerably larger than the Weirauch on my HW110 (at about 116cc). It is not as effective either, in my opinion, however it has a much more pleasant tone and it is very, very quiet.

I like it.

Out of the house only once. No scratches, no marks, no leaks, no blemishes. All original with no mods. Comes with original magazine.

$1525 + Shipping

Last photo shows the last 5 shots I ever shot with the gun.

Just realized recently that I have been breaking the law while hunting. Where I live unless the gun is 22 cal or smaller we are limited to 6 rounds. Glad I never got stopped as I would have gotten in trouble. I got single shot trays for both streamlines and one for an fx impact on the way. Kind of really stinks for follow up shots plus it’s just easier to carry the ammo loaded into mags.

As a noobie, I’m reading lots of stuff regarding compressors, filters, tanks, SCBA, dive shops, desiccants, fire houses, etc. I want to be nice to my expensive new hobby, but how much moisture in our air is “too much”? With moderate usage (of our guns), moderate care (a desiccant filter on the pump), moderate humidity…. How long can one expect our guns to last before they develop the “mayonnaise” problem I’ve heard described (on a website trying to sell tanks and expensive pumps/filters). Is it really that big of an issue for a hobbyist shooter?

Thanks!

Curt

OK, struggling in this one. I have my beeman 2028 that I made into a carbine, have a thread in the air pistol section. Anyhow, I'm having an odd issue.

Gun started off with decent accuracy, and it started to go south and get hard to load. Lost the barrel o-ring. Replaced the o-ring, and still accuracy has diminished further.

I checked to make sure everything is tight and clean the bore. Getting worse. I swap scope to a known good one. Still shotgunning what used to be its favorite pellets.

I lapped the crown and polished the barrel. It's just as bad if not worse now. It'll probably settle a little after another round of seasoning, but it's giving me 3" wandering groups at only 5 yards!

So my question is, can a barrel just 'go bad'?bad?

Also, if I swap my 1358 barrel onto the gun, it gives me dimes at 35 yards. It's definitely something related to the pistol barrel.

Anyone care to guess when the newest version will appear?

Well this one isn't going in my freezer. JSB .30 44gr did this.

Selling my RTI Priest2 in 177. Excellent condition and super accurate. Purchased from AOA mid last year. Only selling it because outside of a little spontaneous pest control here and there, I just don’t have the time that I used to, to devote to the sport and hate to see it just sit.

The Priest2 is shooting 13.43 RD's really accurately. Surprisingly it is also shooting the JSB KnockOuts (also 13.43's) about as accurate. I've only done testing so far at 30 yards in my back yard, so I’m not able to see its full capabilities as far as distance, but where it currently sits is at 860fps with a reg pressure of 130bar. That's pretty much how I received it and have been very happy with it's groupings (about the size of a penny), so I've never had a need to adjust although I know it's more capable than that with the adjustment of the hammer spring and regulator, but it has much more power as it sits, than what I need it for (pest control). I can put the lead exactly where I want it to be placed. I can get about 80+ shots on a fill and have never had any issues with leaking; it holds air with no problems.

I installed a little piece of painted acrylic 'stick' to the butt plate as a bag rider. Easily removed by removing the bolt if you don't want it, or if you want to get the real RTI bag rider. Overall, It’s a fantastic little gun and will do you right.

Asking $875 shipped to your door in its original case (scope not included and shipped only in CONUS). Payment via PP F&F.

My Remington XP .22 has no power at all when cocked by breaking the barrel! What is the problem?

Hi all,

I am a new member but not completely new to air rifles. Started with my trusty Crossman .177 rifle as a young Cub Scout and had a CO2 Crossman BB pistol followed by a Beeman pellet pistol. I currently have a Gamo Whisper Fusion Mach 1. It’s fine for messing around but it reignited my love for air rifles and I want to step up to something better. The Brococks have always caught my eye and I’m currently in the market for a Sahara .22. I think I will get a small compressor but don’t shoot a ton and am not sure if I should just get a small bottle.

Any recommendations on other items I should consider? What are thoughts on bipods vs bag rests? Most of my shooting will be from a bench. I definitely will run a moderator. Any significant difference between 0db and DonnyFL?

Thanks in advance.

***SOLD***&AirMaks Katran Long Bottle .25 caliber 520mm barrel, 480cc bottle, holds air perfectly, comes with one 14 shot magazine & fill probe. Moderator adapter accepts 1/2"X20 moderator also includes thread protector. Cocking lever can be switched to left side. Butt stock folds and is adjustable for length and cheek height. Will be shipped in factory hard case, plus boxed. Excellent condition & shooter @30 yards its stacking the 34gr mk2 pellets @ 839-847 FPS

$825.00 SHIPPED

Ok guys, I go to the PI every year and shoot AG's there a lot. I'm a member of a range there and want to give comp. prizes some at the shoots. What is the cheapest decent AG pump or springer pistol that's half decent? They have access to most of what we have here so any ideas would be appreciated. Salamat po (thanks)!

Up for grabs:
Two new in box Accu-Tac bipods priced to sell.
I bought them new, and never used or mounted them.

#1. Accu-Tac BR-4 G2.
$198 shipped

#2. Accu-Tac FC-G2.
$298 shipped

No trades. Thanks.

---

About to purchase my first SCBA tank. Looking at Joe’s Great White tank from airtanksforsale.com. For those of you who have one what would you recommend I get? He gives three options, all three? Just one? Why? Thanks

Is anyone aware of any USA dealers for LMBR?
Thanks

Hello everyone,

Being an ole country boy from East I have been cooking up all of the various ingredients to meet some Old Time Superstitions that I was born and raised with all my life.

First thing is for Health and Well Being for the new year my folks always had a big pot of Blackeyed Peas and this morning I cooked up two pounds .

The second thing is for Financial Success for the new year we always had Fried Ground Pork wrapped with Mustard Greens and that is next up on my cooking today .

Even if these ole superstitions don’t work, it sure does offer a mess of good eating .

Happy New Year everyone

ThomasT

When I shop for anything, I WANT IT ALL!!
E.g.: I want a full size SUV,
that gets at least 40 miles a gallon,
that I can drive at high velocities through steep turns in our crazy city of 11.000,
and that drives at least 300.000 miles without any major problems,
and costs under $20.000 new.

You laugh.
I cry.
When I buy a car.
And when I buy scopes.


BECAUSE:
You can't always get what you want!

➠ I need to decide on my priorities when buying a scope.
Because I can't always get:
➊ High magnification, and
➋ Wide field of view, and
➌ Compactness (light, short).




The following diagram illustrates this and can help you weigh your own priorities — in order to make a better scope purchase — a sort of scope purchase decision guide (for these 3 aspects only).


If you increase 1 of the 3 scope characteristics mentioned above, the other 2 will diminish....



What questions do you have?
How can I improve this?

Matthias


Attachment:
Scope Performance Triangle #1

Could a airgun specifically a high end pcp be good for a zombie apocalypse? And if so what would be the minimum caliber and energy level you would recommend.

Why is it always like this? 5 shots at 50 yds. Always one that flys away!! My Kral Bighorn .30cal 44 gr JSBs. Well we’ll get ‘‘em the next time…

How many fpe/fps would a Gamo red fire .22 need to penetrate 1inch of one board?

I have a .25 700 STX Superior with a 1:24 twist that shoots JSB 33g pellets exceptionally. It can't shoot a NSA .249 26.8gr slug with any accuracy. 25 yard group sizes are over an inch. I've shot them from 900FPS all the way to 1023 FPS in 10 FPS increments and they won't group well at any speed. Each FPS increment test I shot at least a full mag starting with my hammer spring tension at 4.5 and lowering it until I saw the FPS start dropping. I shot down to 2.5 HS tension is many runs to make sure I wasn't destabilizing the slug from turbulent air behind the slug. Nothing was really making dramatic improvements. Pretty much it would shoot 1 to 3 flyers on a 5 shot group.

I was thinking, #%$, did one of my kids knock my gun off the table when I was inside and put it back with a busted up scope or what? So I put it back on the pellet port and pellet tune and shot 100 rounds of pellet perfection. WTF is wrong with this barrel?

NOTE: The moderator was removed to rule out clipping. I was frustrated and not giving a dam what the neighbors were thinking LMFAO. Every screw was just checked with a torque driver. Nothing could have been moving around.

Anyone else have the issue of air bottles getting really tight to screw on/off? To the point where I start to worry about the amount of torque I'm putting on the bottle itself. Mind, I'm still screwing the on with bare hands but especially if you can't get a good grip, for example when screwing on a 480cc bottle with a saber bipod rail extender, it takes all the grip strength I have to get it on or off. The higher the pressure in the bottle, the bigger the issue.

I've tried cleaning the threads both on the gun and inside the bottle, tried lubricating the threads with a light coat of silicone grease (I've since learned that that is not a good for threads under pressure, and it was cleaned off using alcohol), tried lubing the threads with a small application of copper grease, but nothing seems to work. Anyone else has this problem or knows a solution?