Years ago, I discovered PCP's, and sold off the springers that I owned.
I have not shot a spinger in many years, and I am wondering if anything has changed, over the last 15 or 20 years?
Has there been any major advancements, in the recoil of springers?
What about the newer Nitro pistons?
Was it just hype, or are the nitro pistons really an improvement?

Also, are the Air Arms TX, and HW 97 still reguarded as great shooting spingers, and how do they rate today, as far as recoil is concerned?
Thanks in advance.

I would appreciate a bit of help here as sort of hit the wall.
I recently purchased a new WH30s and so far it has been a very frustrating process, probably the worst shooting gun I’ve ever owned . The problem is there are sudden drastic shifts in the horizontal POI ? It’s as if the power is suddenly cut in half?
The barrel was cleaned, and all the stock screws were torque to specs . However, at 23 yards the best group I could get were quarter inch by 12 inches. Yep , 12 inches. Some groups of 10 shots were spread out 18 inches horizontally. I probably put about 300 shots through it . I assumed it must of had a bad piston seal or maybe a faulty spring. The breech seal looked as a new one should . I disassemble the gun and hoped to recognize a problem.
There was a slight flat spot on the piston seal , wasn’t overly lubed . There was very little initial desilling .
I remove the factory grease and re-lube very lightly, I Install a new Vortek spring and Vortech piston seal. Unfortunately the same issues persisted. It would feel great for the first 16 or 20 shots and then a pellet would almost just roll out the barrel and fall on the floor. Crosman 7.9 doomed were actually getting stuck half way down the barrel. The real confusing part was on paper after shooting it over my chrono,it should’ve been an absolute laser of a rifle. JSB, 8.44 shot an average of 620 ft./lbs, standard deviation of 1.55 and an extreme spread of 3.2. I’ve never seen numbers like that before in any of my guns which include a TX200, , AA Pro sport, two Diana 54’s, WH50, , R9 and WH 97k. I did test and shoot a number of quality pellets with somewhat similar results. Something* just doesn’t add up here.
It seems to shoit great for a little while and then the whole bottom drops out. I took it apart again and thought maybe the vortex seal was too tight however it was pushing out 7.2 foot pounds which is probably what it should. I remove the vortex seal and put in a new WH 30 seal. I can tell you that Vortex seal is a serious piece of rubber. Even after having the pistons sit in a cup of boiling water for about 10 minutes , the Vortek did not come off easy.
The latest version which was today, the gun actually seems to be shooting surprisingly good. One thing I did discovered from all the tear downs was that the pivot bolt appears to get loose very quickly . This is one thing that I never checked and unless looking for it, would not know it. Maybe that was causing the drastic horizontal shift of the POI? I hope so. I should find out in the next couple of days as I shoot an hour every day. I’m actually nervous to shoot the gun again as if it’s not, I don’t know what else to do.
if I missed something or if somebody has any other ideas I would love to hear them.
Thanks
Al

Hello, I am needing some more springer rated scopes. I have some athlons and I think they are springer rated. These will be for hunting and I like ffp for hunting so I can holdover at any power.

Thanks
Jon

HI everyone.
I am having an issue with my Chronograph reading too fast, I think? While I am waiting for a replacement I need some help. My .22 Avenger reg is set at 1700 psi with "0" hammer spring and I am reading 955 fps shooting 18.13gr. JSB heavies. This is my 2nd Avenger and from what I have experienced before at those settings, I should be seeing maybe 750fps-ish. Normally I would need to run 2200 to 2400 psi, and 2 to 4 turns in on the hammer spring to get 950fps.

If you have an Avenger, what should the following settings give in f.p.s. roughly?

JSB 18.13's, 1800 reg, 2 turns in h.s.

JSB 15.89 Hades 1600 reg, 0 turns in h.s.

H&N Cuda s 2400reg, 3 turns in h.s.

Thanks for your help!
Gerry

I’m about to tinker with my HW30 and put a vortek kit in it.


Will this be more than adequate to help with the spring removal? Would this work with a magnum springer too?

If not what do you all recommend?

-Matt

I recently got the uragan gen1 in .177, had Derrick Wall tune it and he did an amazing job as always trigger is crisp and made me a custom port restrictor as I wanted it for 10fpe as my mouse gun. Man oh man 150 shots on one fill and it's a laser. I have 2 minor things I would like to tweak if possible first is the ping near my ear, it's the quietest setup I have had to date and when I'm not on it directly just to test sound I can't hear it so wondering if there is something out there to help. The other thing I would like to tweak is the butt pad would like to swap it it to something more comfortable. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

I barely squeaked that last one in!

Have a great weekend everyone

Just started in with my Fall coyote calling. Was out early near home calling some old burn areas in Oregon's high Cascades.

Was using a combination of howl, fight and pup distress sounds. After about 20-mins of calling I finally heard some coyotes howl back from a long ways away! I thought, "they are at least a mile away and probably won't come from that far". About 5-mins more passed and the coyotes howled again but sounded much closer! I knew then they were coming and prepared for their arrival! About another 5-mins and I saw one of the yotes coming in hard from my left at about 200yds!

The first coyote arrived but was about 100yds out which is father than I choose to shoot with an airgun at coyotes. The second coyote arrived seconds later and it was the larger male! He was about 80yds out and heading toward my downwind! I made quiet rodent distress sounds with my lips to stop him! When he stopped I got my hold-over with the reticle and was about to take the shot! Right then the big male looked over his shoulder at the other coyote and I had the shot right behind his ear into the back of the brain!

Instantly, the big 'dog' yote fell over and never even twitched! 'Stone' dead instantly! The 44gr H&N slug fired at 915fps had hammered the coyote's 'off-switch' and he was dead before he even hit the ground!

Was a very memorable experience the way it all unfolded and one I won't soon forget.

Uragan 2 700 .25 with a beautiful high country timber coyote




I was sitting with my back against the old log where my rifle is leaning but on the opposite side. Coyote was shot where the little orange spot is that I added to the photo.

Not a lot of discussions on the Prophet 1 any more, but I picked up a used one a while back, so I thought I would share.

I received it when I was looking for something inexpensive. I remember when these things came out, and I thought about how much I didn’t like the looks. After looking around, I decided to give it a try anyway.

Few things…

• Performance model, so external reg adjustment. Also has 22LR barrel
• It has the “standard” valve, and I don’t mind, because it is so similar to many other rifles. But reg does creep 20 bar or so between uses. I either just fire 3 shots or so before getting going, or leave the bottle pressure close to the reg pressure when I’m done for storage and then no creep.
• The cocking mech is no where near as smooth as some higher end rifles, but I’m getting used to it. Not a fan of the left cocking lever either, but again getting used to it.
• Hate the magazine being right at your eye! Hate it! Rarely hate anything, but hate this!
• Got a 3D printer cheek riser from MRSHOSTED, and it is perfect to get that mag further from my face and allow me to have a better setup. Cheek risers are something I must have on any rifle I have.
• I like the factory mag. I have a bigger aftermarket one as well, but would prefer a smaller one. I can’t use the larger one with glasses on, because they bump into it.
• I usually don’t like the pic rail way back next to the trigger guard, but the rifle isn’t too tall, so it wasn’t bad. I still used a carbon tube to move the bipod out and to use thr FX Chrony.
• Barrel does like 25RD’s… shallow version around 970. The deeps aren’t as good consistently, but are still pretty good most of the time. The AEA version was pretty good too. I tried some of the mid weight pellets, and it liked the JTS 21.53 pellets A LOT on the same setting around 1000. Didn’t do a lot of testing, at many different speeds with all those, but would buy some more of these to test.

Anyway, just thought I would share some random thoughts after a few times out with it, shooting 20-100 yards. Time to settle on a pellet and then get my dope right.

Thanks to my pal Mike (Revoman) I can see in the dark. He loaned me a Night Vision setup & IR flashlight. I'll TRY to do a follow up with video. Owner of one of my permissions said the "trash pandas" are wreaking havoc in his yard which is about 1/2 acre. I'll be using my Royale 500 (.25) or my Boss (.30) most likely. Hades in both. Any advice? Cat food for bait? I feel like it's Christmas eve . Going around 7pm to set up.

Here’s a photo of my latest Beeman with a 4 power scope that I’ve had at least 50 years and It is still like new. Any guess what it is? Charles

Want to try a pellet that is very soft in a low powered air pistol. Hoping the skirt will deform easily and lock into the rifling. I see lead pellets but they have antimony added for hardness. Any recommendations?????

See all pics. Right hand stock. Changed the stock on myTX200HC to a custom stock for field target use. Will also fit TX200 MKIII.

$240. Shipping included. Payment by PayPal only. I’ll handle the fees.

About safety and stuff...

Once upon a time, long ago, I had my rifles in a rack on the wall. Now, here in Canada, all firearms (which includes airguns over 500 fps) are legally required to be properly stored in a lockable cabinet or with a trigger-lock in a case.

I miss having them on display but from my own experience see that it's for the best to keep all firearms out of sight and unaccessible to unauthorized people.

These days, with all violence in video games and on TV, safe gun handling is a concern.


So that brings me to my point of asking about your first experiences handling a gun.

Having always been strongly attracted to anything that shot a projectile, I was totally impressed with my father's Crosman 101 multi-pump pellet gun. In spite of being forbidden, I'd shoot it (bits of wood, wads of foil or even screws) whenever I got a chance. Luckily, I never did any damage to myself or anything else.

My first "official" use of a rifle came when we visited a family friend who lived in a rural area. There was a .22 rimfire by the back-door and a large amount of begging netted me two boxes of shells. A couple of tins were put in front of a high backstop and a blanket was put on the ground about 10 yards back. I was told that the rifle could not leave the area of the blanket and must always be pointed towards the backstop. After basic instructions on how to operate the rifle and demonstrating that I could manage it, I was left alone to shoot. One hundred shots later, the tins were mostly unharmed but I did have a great time I was told (years) afterwards that they kept an eye on me from the house.

The closest that I got to formal instruction was when I was shooting my Slavia 618 break-barrel beside the road (in the 1960s). A cop watched me for a bit then came over and showed me how to hold the rifle and use the sights properly.

Without someone to mentor you (back before home computers, the internet and YouTube videos) books and magazines were the only source of information. Most of what I knew about guns and shooting came Jack O'Connor's book "Complete Book on Rifles and Shotguns". People are lucky to have access to all kinds of detailed information now.

Anyway, that's where I'm coming from and that's why I'll help anyone who wants to try archery or airguns.



So I'm curious how people got into shooting and how you learned the trade. Did you have someone to teach you or did you have to figure it out yourself?

...Done rambling, heading out to do some plinking

Cheers!

For sale is this Scott 30 minute tank with New 300 din flow restricted valve and 20" fill hose. I lucked into several of these tanks that were obviously surplus ( your tax dollars at work) ! I removed the Scott valve and replaced it with a new fill assembly with a male foster fitting on the tank and fill hose with female foster fittings and strain relief the whole length. This tank is a great break from lugging a 60 minute tank or making do with a 90 cu in bottle. This tank is dated 09/07 and therefore is past it's ( "15 year service life). Due to it's age NO COMMERCIAL BUSINESS WILL FILL IT. You must have your own compressor or a good buddy with one. Use this at your own risk and assume responsibility . I have aired up the tank to test for function and leaks .............................it is good to go. Selling for $180 , plus actual shipping and insurance . Now includes tracked shipping to the conus. To comply with DOT regulations , the tank will be shipped empty unless you want to do a local pick-up in Hickory , NC then it will be full. Not interested in trades or offers at this time. Please deal by pm. Thanks for looking.............................................Herb

Near mint condition. One little ding on the stock next to the stipling on the lever side.

Comes with factory mag, 2 carm mags, factory fill probe, eagle vision fill probe kit(new), and factory single shot tray.

Comes in hard case shown.

Factory tune, 4 mags on regulator @ 27ish FPE.

Only selling to fund a compact gun I want.

$1150 Shipped UPS ground insured CONUS only
PayPal or CashApp preferred

Will accept personal check or PMO from established members with positive feedback only. Ships when check clears.


SCOPE IN PICS NOT INCLUDED.

Picked up raptor mini on forms and was wondering who all is shooting them. Mine is in .25cal and is a neat gun. Don't know much about them but I've had Kailbergun, edguns, fx, air arms, daystate. This time I wanted a USA made gun and this is a older model I got and it was a round the time Travis was in business/company. Just wanting tips on platform or tricks and also show me your setup!

Why is no one talking about this rifle yet?

Should make a welcome addition to non-bullpup hunting rifle options. I know there are a lot of us that prefer more traditional looking designs for our hunting rifles. This one is for sure on my 'radar'.

Nice and compact, but the stock looks far too big for it lol. Basically a bottled kral NP03 in design.

Of course, it's not moderated. Barrel all the way to the end of the shroud. So it'll be damn near 40+" with a can hanging off it.

When will these companies learn most of us want short and quiet with decent power. If I can build them, so can they!

Do you all leave the moderator on the air gun or remove it after shooting every time?

I read that on a firearm it can foul the barrel due to the chemical byproducts of combustion, but with an airgun this shouldn't be an issue and safe to leave the moderator on all the time?

Been alot of talk on O Rings and now I'm in need. I can't find any with a half mm .50 cross section. I also am getting no help from any of the distributors of this gun (AEA hp ss) on sizes for various O Rings. Members here have mentioned O ring factory and some other distributors. When I go to their website they have o rings made for all types of applications and made of alot of different materials. I have a couple questions.
1. What o ring material should I be looking for?
2. Did I get the size right? Any way to tell from the Picture?
ID 6mm
CS .50mm


Thanks

I ended up looking on Krale's site for options. For reasons I don't understand, Krale even with shipping, is a lot cheaper than vendors in the USA! If I am missing a good vendor tor these rifle, please let me know.

In summary for anyone who has not read my other thread, I live in a rural area and need to kill rodents and small predators around buildings and things where collateral damage would be bad. I am thinking pass-thru shots and misses mainly that impact things they shouldn't.

For effectiveness on larger things (relative to mice and pigeons), I think I am better served with 0.22 or 0.25 pellets for a bigger thud that would break bones or make a bigger wound channel

I have had shoulder surgery and I am ~8 years away from getting Social Security so while I live an active lifestyle, I also realize I need to be cautious of getting something excessively heavy to cock. An HW 30S would be super easy to cock but, is pretty low on the power side for effectively and humanely killing things with less than perfect shot placement. The HW 50S seems to be a better option for humanely dispatching things but, is cocking it going to be reasonable for me?

What are the trade-offs between the 0.25 and 0.22 options in either of these air rifles? I assume accuracy between both calibers and both air rifles will essentially be the same given a little pellet preference for each air rifle.

TIA,
Sid

yep, this one will be a swing optic between my Mk2 crown compact and 2 PB guns, also any airguns i need to play with

my reason for buying them other than there awesome quality is they help my eyesight greatly in every condition from broad-open daylight til
cloudy midnights without the stars. not to mention its great profile storage

my kinda critter gun optic from hell.

Hello, I have a near perfect Dreamline Saber Tactical .177 for sale. It's 100% in function and 95% in appearance. You might find a light scuff but you'll have to hunt for it. It comes with a brand new 6-24x50mm FFP illuminated scope and donnyfl Koi. Has three mags and UTG mlok bipod. Laser accurate. Asking $900 for rifle and 1 mag, or, as pictured $1,150 delivered inside the United States. I do accept PayPal. Goods and services add 5%. Thanks for looking, (870) 450-8479. I also have a Saber Tactical bottle adapter and a 300mm 177 cal barrel if your interested in making it super compact. It will come with all the saber tactical conversion parts to make it a bottle instead of a cylinder if you choose to get the additional parts.