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PCP resealing basics

I read here that many people change their own o-rings, but I don’t hear much about how.

I have a couple of PCPs and may add more. I do plenty of mechanical things by myself but I haven’t opened a PCP yet. If I can rebuild a manual transmission I expect I can handle this.

How do you know which o-rings to have on-hand? Material, durometer, lubricants, etc. I would rather spend a few more dollars for Viton or even FFKM if an o-ring may last longer. I have some Krytox grease on hand, is that the best? Any special tools?

Thanks,

David
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Tuning  RAW HM1000X a bit out of box loud thinking

I understand that RAW guns' block has three cavities. The lowest for the regulator, the middle one for the valve and the top one for barrel.

I feel that just after the threaded area of bottom cavity and middle cavity, the separation wall between these two cavities may be removed to enlarge the plenum area.

Since all air passed through the regulator ultimately enters into the middle cavity where valve sits, these is no use of any metal upto a certain distance.

We just need to ensure that there should be no issues in installing the regulator and valve and valve plug screw.

Rest of the metal between these two cavities may be removed to achieve more plenum space without the need of around 10cc external plenum.

I hope some seasoned tuners like Motorhead and others may opine.

I might be totally wrong in all this and may be missing some critical point which professional tuners may point out.

Regards,

Umair Bhaur
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NLA WTT - 6-24x50 for lightweight smaller scope

I've got a Riton X1 Conquer 6-24x50 and it's just too big for my small carbine. Looking for something other then a duplex reticle in like 3-12 or similar power. I've got a nice 3-12x44 Leupold VX2 that is perfect size but it's just got a duplex so not good for squirrel holdovers. Prefer something close in value, but will trade up/down in value within reason.
The extended shade I found in my junk drawer and is from a different scope but is the same thread. The shade does have a small ding in it from a breakbarrel.
Thanks

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Short "Overkill" rodent thermal compilation


Here's a short video I put together just to see how it turns out. I've got hours of pesting of the various farms that I hunt. 😊
If there is a positive, I'll start uploading to my YouTube channel and share.

Optics, Pulsar XP50 Trail LRF (Gen 1)
Airgun, Western Rattler .357
Tripod, Bogen Monfrotto 3205 w/46mm Low Profile Artcise ballhead arca plate.
Ammo, NSA .357 110g slugs @965 fps
Results, OVERKILL!


First shot @ 30 yards, rat.
Second shot @ 40 yards, Field mouse? Disintegrated...
Third shot @ 25 yards, Field mouse? Hamster? It was on the move. Took a couple of shots. But... Disintegrated...
Results, little snacks for the farm cats to enjoy because they're too flip'n lazy to hunt them on there own. 😊

Enjoy!

K9

SOLD Saber Buttstock (Great condition)

$210 shipped CONUS

This buttstock has never left the house, no scratches or chips....it has never touched concrete or dirt.


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Pellet Stability

This has appeared on a few forums, mainly in the UK, so some of you may have seen it before. I have tried to make it as simple and none technical as possible.

Quite often you will see someone mentioning stability, talking about how pellets go unstable as they slow down or are more accurate because they are more stable. But what is stability with regard to pellets, and how does it affect how a pellet flies? This post does not describe the actual mechanism for stability on a pellet, only the different types of stability and how they affect the pellet.

A stable pellet is not one which comes out of the barrel and keeps pointing in the same direction. A stable pellet is one which comes out of the barrel and attempts to point directly into the airflow. As the pellet flies along its trajectory, the direction of the airflow will change due to winds and the pellet being pulled towards the ground, but a stable pellet will try to change the way in which it is pointing to stay with the airflow (Figure 1).

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Fig 1

An unstable pellet will not point in the direction of the airflow and may eventually tumble (Figure 2).

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Fig 2

When a pellet is not facing into the airflow we say it is at an angle of yaw (Figure 3) and pellet stability is all about trying to control and reduce that angle of yaw.

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Fig 3

There are two basic types of stability working on any projectile as it flies through the air. These are static and dynamic stability.

To try to explain the difference between the different types of stability, think about a weight hanging on the end of a piece of string (figure 4). If you do not touch the weight, it will just hang down under the string. This is its original position, the position it likes to sit in. This is equivalent to a stable pellet pointing directly into the airflow at zero yaw angle. If you pull the weight slightly to one side and let it go, if it is stable, it will swing back towards its original position. This is because the forces and moments produced by the weight and the string are trying to push the weight back to its original position. If the weight and string were an unstable system, then as soon as we release the weight, it would move away from its original position. This type of stability is called static stability.

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Fig 4

When we have pulled our weight to one side and let it go, if it is stable it will move back towards its original resting position, but the first time it reaches its resting position, it does not stop but goes on the other side until it eventually stops and then returns towards its original position from the other direction. Our weight will keep doing this with each swing getting a little smaller until it eventually stops back in its original position. It does this because the weight and string are dynamically stable, so the size of the swing reduces each time until there is nothing left. If the weight had neutral dynamic stability, it would keep on going, with each swing being the same size as the one before. If the weight and the string were dynamically unstable, the swings would get bigger until eventually the weight would go in a complete circle even though it is statically stable.

As far as pellets are concerned there are actually three types of stability acting on them and affecting their flight as there are two types of static stability. If we just think of normal dome type diabolo pellets they are what we call aero/gyro stabilized, that is they rely on aerodynamic and gyroscopic methods for static stability. The third type is dynamic stability, which is needed to stop the pellet continuously yawing about its zero yaw position as it flies along the trajectory.

When we fire a pellet, it is highly unlikely that it will be pointing exactly in the direction of the air flow after it has left the barrel. This is due to many things including wind, barrel vibrations, pellet manufacturing problems etc. so it will usually have a yaw angle soon after it has left the barrel. The diagrams below illustrate the effects on the yaw angle for the different stability states. In each case, the vertical value is the angle of yaw in degrees and the horizontal is the range in yards. First (figure 5) we have a pellet which is both aerodynamically and gyroscopically unstable. That is, it is statically unstable.

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Fig 5

Here, the pellet yaw angle will just increase until the pellet eventually faces backwards and tumbles.

Next (figure 6) is a pellet which is statically stable but dynamically unstable.

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Fig 6

In this case the yaw swings through zero, but each swing gets bigger, and the pellet will eventually go sideways. Next (figure 7) is a pellet which is statically stable but dynamically neutrally stable. Here, the swings of the pellet through zero yaw are always the same.

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Fig 7

Last (figure 8) is the situation we want, which is a pellet which is stable both statically and dynamically. The pellet swings through zero yaw, and each swing is smaller than its predecessor.

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Fig 8

In reality most conventional pellets appear to be aerodynamically statically stable at speeds well below the speed of sound (1116.5ft/sec), that is, if we fired one from a smooth bore barrel it will continue to point in the direction of the trajectory. However, its aerodynamic static stability is marginal and at high speeds disappears completely. Also, no pellet, or any other projectile, is made completely symmetrical and any differences from one side of the pellet to the other will produce an aerodynamic side force which will cause it to try to fly on a curved path. To reduce the effects of any projectile asymmetry, pellets and most other aerodynamically statically stable projectiles are given some spin so that any side force is not pointing in the same direction all the time. This will make the pellet wobble a bit, but will not produce the curved flight path. The spin rate needed for this is very low, much less than is needed for gyroscopic stability.

Most barrels give pellets much higher spin rates than those needed to reduce side force effects. This is because, with the marginal aerodynamic stability, a degree of gyroscopic stability in addition to the aerodynamic stability is beneficial. This is why we say they are aero/gyro stabilized.

From the reported behaviour of pellets, they would seem to have pretty much neutral dynamic stability, possibly changing to dynamic instability if fired at high speeds for long ranges. The change to dynamic instability is probably due to the increase in pellet spin rate relative to the pellet forward speed as the pellet flies along its trajectory. This apparent increase in spin rate is due to the pellet losing forward speed much quicker than it loses spin, until it causes the pellet to become dynamically unstable. It appears to be the dynamic instability produced by the excess spin rate, which may lead to apparent spiralling and accuracy effects at longer ranges or at higher speeds. The pellets are still statically stable, in fact the gyroscopic stability has increased, but the dynamic instability is adversely affecting the pellet flight.

So next time you are shooting, just pay those little pellets some respect and marvel at the way they still manage to go through all the complications of the different stabilities and still hit a small target. Or forget about all the science and just get on and enjoy your shooting.

Machinist Question - Rethreading

Anyone know if it's possible to re-thread 1/2x28 to 12x20?

Thinking about playing with some off-the-shelf muzzle brakes as an insert in a RTI shroud.

Anyone know off the top of their head what the RTI barrel threads are? I'm guessing the barrel threads on the RTI barrels are metric..maybe 14-1..IDK.

So maybe the question is it possible to re-thread 1/2x28 to 14-1?

SOLD US Optics Anti Cant Device Rail Mounted Fixed Scope Bubble Level BBL-100

Hello AGN:

I have two (2) US Optics BBL-100 Anti Cant Device - Rail Mounted Fixed Scope Bubble Level. These are very nice, Made in the USA products and sell for $85 each . . . and they're typically out of stock or on backorder most of the time. One unit will come with the original packaging and the other will not. Price is $65/ea shipped (or $120 shipped for both).

The ONLY trade interests I have are: JSB 0.22 18g pellets, DonnyFL Tatsu (in 0.22 only) or Warne 34mm FDE one piece mount.

I've got plenty of references here so please feel free to check them on the Member Feedback forum prior to purchasing. Paypal Friends & Family payment is prefered (otherwise, please add 3.5% to cover the fees). Local pickup in the SF Bay Area is available as well.

Thanks!
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Selling An Other Places To Sell

Hello! So I'm Looking To Sell Off My Air Gun That I Bought As An Impulse Buy. I Bought It Cause It Looked Cool Like The Real Thing! But I'm Realizing I Never Used It. So I Figured I'd Sell It To Recuperate Some Funds, Also Selling Some Air Soft Stuff As Well. One Problem, I'm Unsure Where To Sell It. Thought Dick's Sporting Good's Would Buy It But Nope. I Did Google Some Things And This Forum Popped Up. I'd Like To Try Here But Are There Any Other Places Or Sites That Buy Them?

Stupid law or am I missing something.

I live in Pennsylvania and have hunted here for 40+ years. Just got a new FX Impact .25 sniper and was thinking this would be a great squirrel rifle. I didn’t buy it for that but after shooting it, I know it would just about perfect. So, thought I’d check PA game laws to make sure we can hunt small game with air rifles now. We never used to be able to but now we can, as long as it’s .177 or 22 caliber! How freaking stupid is that? What am I missing? Pellets are too large and they don’t want those huge chunks of lead (25 grain) flying around the woods? I guess a 40 grain 22 cal slug or a 40 grain bullet from 22 rf would be better…

Somebody enlighten me please.
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SOLD FX Wildcat MK1 .25 with Air compressor and bottle- SOLD

I just recieved my new airgun after a considerable wait so am letting go of my previous squirreling rifle. I have an FX Wildcat MK1 with a Donny Sumo, air compressor (I have 2), bottle and pellets up for grabs. I switched to a .30 for hunting is the reason I am selling. This was used for hunting so the round count is low as I am not a target shooter. Shoots very well and accurate with aftermarket Huma reg. I tested last weekend and it's shooting JSB 16.5 at between 917-930 FPS. Asking 900 for total package. Must pick up in Oxford, KS for whole package which will include 3 tins of JSB .25 pellets. I can be reached via forum or text at 316 six 33 8636. Thanks for looking. Luck!

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When is it time to move on to a new gun?

I’ve had the luxury of owning quite a few high end guns in the short time I’ve been in this hobby. That money has long gone, and though I have 4 high end pcp’s, I sometimes wonder if they’re what I want/need.

Sometimes I find myself keeping one of my guns to try and change myself to fit the gun, but is this a good idea? My Dreamline is the cheapest gun in my arsenal, yet for me, it’s the easiest and most accurate to shoot. Is it because my other guns aren’t accurate? Heck no! I just can’t shoot them as accurately.

So the question comes up, when is it time to throw in the towel and sell one to buy something else to see if it’s more suited for my needs? Or do I just keep trying till I’m accurate with what I’ve got?

One way to know you're hooked...

Woke up this morning with a sore right shin. Knew right away what caused it- have been working on building a good kneeling position for field target. Think I have the position down, but need a lot of repetition to build muscle memory & consistency.
Nothing serious, a little stretching worked it out. Might cut back just a bit on the kneeling shots for the next few practice sessions. Nowhere near good enough at standing or bucket 'n sticks to neglect practicing those, so there will be no trouble filling the time 😁.
Got to thinking about how fast this game ate me up. When the calendar hit October, had never been to a field target match. Threatened it for a couple years, but always found an excuse (some real, some imagined). Took possession of a dandy .177 rifle (one well suited to Hunter Class FT) on October 1st, & mounted a scope (also well suited to FT) that night. Spent nearly all free time the next week getting dope & marking the scope side wheel for ranging.
If you're browsing this subforum you probably already know this- it's a bit of work (fun work) to get things just right for holdovers & ranging. Parallax wheel markings frustrated me a bit in the first few attempts, but learned some things. First, don't use a target that has little texture or definition, makes it more difficult than it needs to be. Second, don't try to get your longer ranges in extremely low light (this was just pure dumba$$ery on my part). Third, the progressive lenses in my prescription glasses do not play nice with scope parallax ranging.
Managed to get it all worked out by the weekend. Freshly out of excuses, drove over the river & through the woods to my first match. A great reception from the veterans had me liking it before the shooting ever started. By the time we were moving on from the first lane, the infection had set in.
Still October & now waking up with soreness from practicing forced position shots. Drove 3+ hours to my second match, & barring unforeseen circumstances, will be driving 4+ hours to a match this weekend.

Hook is in there pretty deep 🎣

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