Made a trip to Utah last week from Michigan. Spent time in Salt Lake City and then traveled to Zion. Realized that Utah Airguns was on the way so had to make a stop. What an impressive showroom with dozens of rifles on display
But even more impressive was the staff. Super friendly and full of great info. Wish I would have had more time there. Did purchase a souvenir from Perry.

Selling my FX impact M3 standard length in .30. Comes with three magazines, bi pod, Kraford&Lypt under bottle rail/trigger guard, a variety of FX slugs and pellets, palm support grip, FX moderator, FX case and owners guide. Sig Sauer scope optional, will not be included in the sale price. Carbon fiber wrap is easily removable and done by me. Please message me with any questions or if you'd like to see more photos.

Asking $1400obo shipping included.

check it out" no pic. yet?

1. Caliber: The Umarex Notos is typically chambered for .22 caliber pellets, which are larger and heavier compared to .177 pellets. This caliber is suitable for various purposes, including pest control and target shooting.
2. Break-Barrel Action: The Notos is often a break-barrel air rifle, meaning the barrel is hinged at the receiver and can be manually cocked by breaking it downward to load a pellet.
3. Sights: Depending on the model, the Notos may come with open sights, such as front and rear fiber-optic sights, which are useful for shooting without optics.
4. Optics Compatibility: The rifle may include a dovetail or Picatinny/Weaver rail for mounting optical accessories like scopes or red dot sights to enhance accuracy for target shooting.
5. Stock Design: The stock of the Notos is typically designed to be ergonomic and may feature a textured grip and forearm for better control. The stock design can vary based on the model.
6. Safety Mechanism: Like all air rifles, the Notos is equipped with safety mechanisms to prevent accidental discharges.
7. Barrel Length: The length of the barrel can affect accuracy and muzzle velocity and may vary between models.
8. Adjustable Trigger: Some versions of the Notos may have an adjustable trigger, allowing users to customize the trigger pull to their preference for improved accuracy.
9. Power Source: The Notos is usually powered by a spring-piston mechanism, where a spring compresses air to propel the pellet when the rifle is cocked and fired.
10. Sound Moderation: Depending on the model, the Notos may have built-in sound moderation or a suppressor to reduce the noise generated when firing, making it quieter for backyard shooting or pest control.
11. Weight: The weight of the Notos can vary depending on the model and features.
12. Capacity: Most break-barrel air rifles, including the Notos, are single-shot rifles, meaning they require manual reloading after each shot.

(Solved, my mistake was thinking E sign was euros, but I guess it was pound to USD and everything checked out. I just thought I got ripped off cause I was thinking their prices was in euros)

So I bought an eagle vision gopro mount from eagle vision. It was 331 euros total with shipping. I just checked my bank account. Eagle vision took out $430.23 from my bank account. Like wtf. Did I just got robbed? Cause I google 331 euros and that is suppose to be $357.89. So why did eagle vision charge me $430.23? I did not want to pay that much for just a mounting system, doesn't even include the gopro. Hmmmmm. Is my euro to USD incorrect or what? Kinda feel bummed dang.

Someone was asking about CS stocks, and I nearly asked this question there. Then I remembered how irritating it can be when things go off on a tangent.
I’m a leftie and have a HW50 which I am using for paper targets as I try to develop my skills for next year’s local field target club. It seems to me that I’d benefit from either an adjustable cheek piece, butt piece, and a hamster, OR a custom fitted stock.
I’ve seen a YouTube video on someone making a stock - so now I know everything just kidding.
It made me wonder how difficult it would be to make a stock along the lines of my HW50 stock, but with the design tweaked for FT? I don’t want to take a saw to my stock because it would reduce its resale value if ever I decide to sell it.
One initial question I have is about inletting. I read that the action tube is 29.4 or 29.6 mm in diameter. I assume that a 30 mm round router would be a good fit to house it - does that make sense?
If anyone would care to answer any part of this question I’d appreciate it. Also appreciated would be photos/tips of stocks you’ve made for airguns. Thanks.

I'm new to this forum but I've been searching it and using it for a little while now. I just never made an account til now. I'm much more beginner than most everyone here. I shot bb's as a kid and somehow (thankfully) got back into it at 35 haha. I've got a CO2 Umarex pistol and my Gamo break barrel should be here today. That's my setup and I don't plan on changing it much for a little while.

The Gamo is scope only with no sights built in. I like the reflex sights as a closer range option at 10 yards or so. But I don't understand well enough. Optics are there to compensate for drift or fall as the pellet flies correct? All things being constant, I would just calibrate the optics to point to where the pellet will hit. So why is leveling and precision mounting so important? Wouldn't calibrating the optics take that into account?
Also, the reflex sights are often talked about as mounted offset on semiautomatic rifles. So I see a lot about how the shooter tilts the rifle to switch from scope to sights. I understand that this is to keep the rifle in its optimal position. Me using a break barrel, I need to lose that position with every shot anyway. So can I hold the rifle in the normal upright position and use the sight at its angled position? I would just adjust it to point where the pellet will hit, right?
There's gotta be stuff that I don't know or understand, but this is where I am so far. From what I know or don't know, I don't understand why certain things need to be done when the optics need to be dialed in anyway.

I’m not that good at doing videos but I really do enjoy shooting slugs with my BRK Ghost!

I am fairly new to air rifles but not firearms. I have been shooting my Airacuda Max in .22 and enjoy it. I would like a .30 Cal for bigger game. Airgun Channel has convinced me that the would be a good choice. I have done a bit of research and I really like the following features: Bottle 4500 PSI air tank, supported by Hajimoto, upgradable, accurate, will shoot slugs if I want, and side lever. The weight is certainly a thing but it's not much heavier than the Airacuda. I would like to keep my budget under $800. I have looked at the Hatsan Blitz but I don't need semi or full auto and would rather have accuracy. I realize the M60b is in the same arena but I cannot find it in .30 cal, Am I missing anything?

Jbravo103 and I went pdogg'n today, it was a beautiful day 68° mostly sunny with wind 5 to 10 mph.



There were plenty of prairie dogs but they were very wild.

It's drier than Hawkeye's martini here in ND so we had to go to a different dog town as the land owner didn't want us driving through his pasture.



The wind was tough to get a accurate wind hold as it was up to 10 then drop to 5 and back to 10.


This is the latest in the year we have been able to shoot pdogs.

We had snow by this time the past few years.


Till next year !

Thanks for reading !
Brian

Just saw a little clip of this pcp pistol,
I have been making up my mind for some time to burn my savings on getting my first ever pcp pistol which up until this mount was HUBEN gk1,
but now I m thinking if Mordax will be a better choice for a pcp pistol??
anyone here who knows the lucky guy who won the one and only mordax pistol in lucky draw @2024 EBR event this year??
any thoughts/updates about this mordax are welcome on this thread.

New HW30s at UPS and being delivered today. (From Krale). I have read a lot here at Airgun Nation and I see "Dieseling" mentioned. Some say it's no problem and others say to clean the barrel before I shoot it the first time. If it occurs is it a puff of white smoke coming out of the muzzle as you shoot the rifle? Thanks .

Got any suggestions?

When I bought these rifles NOS, they worked fine, I fired three shots from each and put them in the safe for a couple of years. Now I took them out and both rifles won't cock, the bolts won't even move. What could this be?

I bought my first PCP air rifle a while back. I decided to get the AvengeX in 0.177. I wanted something for target practice in the back yard that's extremely accurate. I shoot lead free only.

Well I've been messing with the AvengeX for a few months and put at least 1000 rounds through it, and I think I'm going to sell it and buy something else. The problem I have with it is this: I can get it dialed in and shoot at 10mm group at around 15 meters with H&N Baracuda green pellets, but inevitably I pull it out on another day and the zero is way off, sometimes as much as 4cm. I've also noticed that the zero shifts quite a bit if I shoot with a bipod, vs steadying the gun against a post.

After tinkering with the damn thing for many hours, I think the reason is how flexible the front barrel band area of the gun is. If you put *any* torque on the stock it twists the barrel band. As it twists it shifts the barrel. I've tried fixing it in various ways, including 3D printing a huge brace, but nothing has worked.

I generally shoot real ARs, and I just can't get over how finicky this gun is by comparison. I can store one of my ARs for a full year, and pull it out and the zero is still perfect. I would like to find an air rifle like that.

I've had other issues with it too. Pellets have a tendency to fall out of the mag. When they do they can easily fall backwards into the action, where they get mangled by the hammer. I've had to dissasemble the gun at least 3 times to get jammed pellets out of it.

Any recommendations? I would like to spend less than 1k, ideally in the 500-700 range. I'm considering the FX DRS but it's a bit pricey.

Can anyone identify what gun this might be from please? Thanks

Just got avenger 25cal what happens if you shoot when tank press falls below regulator setting

I saw three bucks last evening and six this evening. I want to hunt squirrel so bad but I just can’t until a buck is hanging. I’m getting concerned that I might lower my buck standards just a little so I can just relax and squirrel hunt. I did it last year and promised myself I wouldn’t this year. I guess I’ll see how it plays out. In the meantime I’ll check out the squirrels you guys are picking off.

The first thing I did was tighten all screws in the stock, mount, and rail. Inspected barrel. Nice rifle bore detail. No rust.
Stout spring.
Stock is surprisingly solid. However the front forked by the greak barrel ares could be a bit stiffer.
Scope mounting weaver rings was a bit testy on my Barska 4 x 32 adjustable yardage. Scope upgrade.
Rated for airguns and seems 10 times as solid.
Factory scope may be going in the trash.
So far seems plenty good for a $100 to $129 25 caliber air rifle.
I may plan on making this a practice assembly, disssembly, modified project shooter once I purchase a second mid quality air rifle.
Before and after adding scope. May even try a 1 x red dot pinty sight.
So far no complaints.
I like the idea of getting a rebuild kit and keeping this as an in field
small game /varmint hunter.
I will upgrade to another air rifle someday. Seems so far I got lucky and got a good one here.
IMG_20241027_130631_6.heic 1.4 MB

View attachment IMG_20241027_145421_5.heic

View attachment IMG_20241027_145310_0.heic

View attachment IMG_20241027_124934_4.heic

View attachment IMG_20241027_130631_6.heic

I was checking the velocity of my rifle to make sure I am below 12fpe before Worlds in November. I shot a number of times and my rifle came in at 11.55-11.7 fpe. Well within the limits. I did have one shot the jumped to over 12 fpe. I have the rule book printed off in front of me. I don’t really see a clear explanation on how they check rifles other than 3 shots. Do all three shots need to be under 12fpe, average less than 12fpe, is there and allowable variance, etc? I honestly feel like my rifle is legal and am not trying to cheat.

Anyone interested in trading a pcp for my extra Minelab Manticore? Only used once for a couple hrs. I have the original box and all accessories.

I responded to an ad recently via PM.i asked if the person was ok with standard paypal (vs family friends ) if I paid the fee.
The response was as if I was going to rip them off by using PayPal and then disputing the transaction.
I'd always thought "goods and services " protected both parties.
Direct payment like Zelle or FF are non protected for buyer.

I’ve seen where I should PM Motorhead for inquiries…. I just can’t figure out how to do it. (Maybe haven’t met criteria of 10 posts)

Please email me: [email protected]

An older local field target shooter decided it was time to thin his collection. A buddy picked up this P70JR that I am guessing had spent the last 20 years in the gun case in a damp SoCal coastal garage. I should have done a better job documenting it. The rifle had old club stickers, surface rust of the bolts and parts of the butpad and the stock discolored. My buddy asked if I would shoot it some and see if it needed anything. I agreed and as they say no good deed goes unpunished.

I brought it home aired up the empty tube and it gave me three shots before the rifle started leaking at the plenum. Then a few minutes later the cylinder popped. I aired up the second cylinder and it lasted about thirty seconds. I knew fast this would probably turn into a pain.


Rusty bolts.



Ghosts of the removed stickers.




Vid of it unairing itself.

Looks like the US Spec version of the BSA R12 CLX Pro is finally here! https://bsaairguns.com/product/r12-xlx-pro-pcp-pellet-rifle/ .25 in stock and .22 should be in soon according to the email I received from BSA last week. The numbers look good and I am looking forward to seeing some reviews come in but I am expecting good things! It's on my short list of guns I must have but don't need for sure lol!

I I have an early HMX that I’m looking to modify the valve for efficiency and power.

The nylon poppet is distorted, I’ve made peek poppets in the past. So I’m planning to go that route.
the question I have, should I make the seat flat? As I’ve heard ppl say it easier to open or should I maintain the angle on the seal?

Secondly, there is a small oring inside the valve, sealing around the valve stem. This oring causes a fair bit of restriction on the valve stem? Would it make sense to remove it?
This would allow air into the hammer cavity during the shot cycle. But it wouldn’t be a lot.

the gun was originally tuned for 21gr nsa slugs at 940fps, at 148bar reg.
I’m hoping to get my get pressure down. I have opened the cavities on the hmx block. By my calculations I have doubled the plenum volume. Going from 18cc to 33cc
Not I would like to address the valve.