Jbravo103 and I went pdogg'n today, it was a beautiful day 68° mostly sunny with wind 5 to 10 mph.



There were plenty of prairie dogs but they were very wild.

It's drier than Hawkeye's martini here in ND so we had to go to a different dog town as the land owner didn't want us driving through his pasture.



The wind was tough to get a accurate wind hold as it was up to 10 then drop to 5 and back to 10.


This is the latest in the year we have been able to shoot pdogs.

We had snow by this time the past few years.


Till next year !

Thanks for reading !
Brian

Just saw a little clip of this pcp pistol,
I have been making up my mind for some time to burn my savings on getting my first ever pcp pistol which up until this mount was HUBEN gk1,
but now I m thinking if Mordax will be a better choice for a pcp pistol??
anyone here who knows the lucky guy who won the one and only mordax pistol in lucky draw @2024 EBR event this year??
any thoughts/updates about this mordax are welcome on this thread.

New HW30s at UPS and being delivered today. (From Krale). I have read a lot here at Airgun Nation and I see "Dieseling" mentioned. Some say it's no problem and others say to clean the barrel before I shoot it the first time. If it occurs is it a puff of white smoke coming out of the muzzle as you shoot the rifle? Thanks .

Got any suggestions?

When I bought these rifles NOS, they worked fine, I fired three shots from each and put them in the safe for a couple of years. Now I took them out and both rifles won't cock, the bolts won't even move. What could this be?

I bought my first PCP air rifle a while back. I decided to get the AvengeX in 0.177. I wanted something for target practice in the back yard that's extremely accurate. I shoot lead free only.

Well I've been messing with the AvengeX for a few months and put at least 1000 rounds through it, and I think I'm going to sell it and buy something else. The problem I have with it is this: I can get it dialed in and shoot at 10mm group at around 15 meters with H&N Baracuda green pellets, but inevitably I pull it out on another day and the zero is way off, sometimes as much as 4cm. I've also noticed that the zero shifts quite a bit if I shoot with a bipod, vs steadying the gun against a post.

After tinkering with the damn thing for many hours, I think the reason is how flexible the front barrel band area of the gun is. If you put *any* torque on the stock it twists the barrel band. As it twists it shifts the barrel. I've tried fixing it in various ways, including 3D printing a huge brace, but nothing has worked.

I generally shoot real ARs, and I just can't get over how finicky this gun is by comparison. I can store one of my ARs for a full year, and pull it out and the zero is still perfect. I would like to find an air rifle like that.

I've had other issues with it too. Pellets have a tendency to fall out of the mag. When they do they can easily fall backwards into the action, where they get mangled by the hammer. I've had to dissasemble the gun at least 3 times to get jammed pellets out of it.

Any recommendations? I would like to spend less than 1k, ideally in the 500-700 range. I'm considering the FX DRS but it's a bit pricey.

Can anyone identify what gun this might be from please? Thanks

Just got avenger 25cal what happens if you shoot when tank press falls below regulator setting

I saw three bucks last evening and six this evening. I want to hunt squirrel so bad but I just can’t until a buck is hanging. I’m getting concerned that I might lower my buck standards just a little so I can just relax and squirrel hunt. I did it last year and promised myself I wouldn’t this year. I guess I’ll see how it plays out. In the meantime I’ll check out the squirrels you guys are picking off.

The first thing I did was tighten all screws in the stock, mount, and rail. Inspected barrel. Nice rifle bore detail. No rust.
Stout spring.
Stock is surprisingly solid. However the front forked by the greak barrel ares could be a bit stiffer.
Scope mounting weaver rings was a bit testy on my Barska 4 x 32 adjustable yardage. Scope upgrade.
Rated for airguns and seems 10 times as solid.
Factory scope may be going in the trash.
So far seems plenty good for a $100 to $129 25 caliber air rifle.
I may plan on making this a practice assembly, disssembly, modified project shooter once I purchase a second mid quality air rifle.
Before and after adding scope. May even try a 1 x red dot pinty sight.
So far no complaints.
I like the idea of getting a rebuild kit and keeping this as an in field
small game /varmint hunter.
I will upgrade to another air rifle someday. Seems so far I got lucky and got a good one here.
IMG_20241027_130631_6.heic 1.4 MB

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I was checking the velocity of my rifle to make sure I am below 12fpe before Worlds in November. I shot a number of times and my rifle came in at 11.55-11.7 fpe. Well within the limits. I did have one shot the jumped to over 12 fpe. I have the rule book printed off in front of me. I don’t really see a clear explanation on how they check rifles other than 3 shots. Do all three shots need to be under 12fpe, average less than 12fpe, is there and allowable variance, etc? I honestly feel like my rifle is legal and am not trying to cheat.

Anyone interested in trading a pcp for my extra Minelab Manticore? Only used once for a couple hrs. I have the original box and all accessories.

I responded to an ad recently via PM.i asked if the person was ok with standard paypal (vs family friends ) if I paid the fee.
The response was as if I was going to rip them off by using PayPal and then disputing the transaction.
I'd always thought "goods and services " protected both parties.
Direct payment like Zelle or FF are non protected for buyer.

I’ve seen where I should PM Motorhead for inquiries…. I just can’t figure out how to do it. (Maybe haven’t met criteria of 10 posts)

Please email me: [email protected]

An older local field target shooter decided it was time to thin his collection. A buddy picked up this P70JR that I am guessing had spent the last 20 years in the gun case in a damp SoCal coastal garage. I should have done a better job documenting it. The rifle had old club stickers, surface rust of the bolts and parts of the butpad and the stock discolored. My buddy asked if I would shoot it some and see if it needed anything. I agreed and as they say no good deed goes unpunished.

I brought it home aired up the empty tube and it gave me three shots before the rifle started leaking at the plenum. Then a few minutes later the cylinder popped. I aired up the second cylinder and it lasted about thirty seconds. I knew fast this would probably turn into a pain.


Rusty bolts.



Ghosts of the removed stickers.




Vid of it unairing itself.

Looks like the US Spec version of the BSA R12 CLX Pro is finally here! https://bsaairguns.com/product/r12-xlx-pro-pcp-pellet-rifle/ .25 in stock and .22 should be in soon according to the email I received from BSA last week. The numbers look good and I am looking forward to seeing some reviews come in but I am expecting good things! It's on my short list of guns I must have but don't need for sure lol!

I I have an early HMX that I’m looking to modify the valve for efficiency and power.

The nylon poppet is distorted, I’ve made peek poppets in the past. So I’m planning to go that route.
the question I have, should I make the seat flat? As I’ve heard ppl say it easier to open or should I maintain the angle on the seal?

Secondly, there is a small oring inside the valve, sealing around the valve stem. This oring causes a fair bit of restriction on the valve stem? Would it make sense to remove it?
This would allow air into the hammer cavity during the shot cycle. But it wouldn’t be a lot.

the gun was originally tuned for 21gr nsa slugs at 940fps, at 148bar reg.
I’m hoping to get my get pressure down. I have opened the cavities on the hmx block. By my calculations I have doubled the plenum volume. Going from 18cc to 33cc
Not I would like to address the valve.

I see people attaching bubble levels and whatnot on there guns and scopes trying to get perfect level. How would you know your gun is even level? Since most guns aren't flat on top how would attaching a level on the barrel you know its even level. So when I install my scope. I hold the gun to where it looks straight and level for my eye. Then I loosen the scope rings and rotate the scope till the cross hair is level. I double check that gun is still level and cross hair is also level using only my eyes. No bubble level or any attachment. Am I doing it right or am I doing it the wrong way. When I go to my crosshair is level, that's all that matter or is there more to it than just having crosshair level during shooting.

I'm considering a CS stock for my R9. I'm probably in the minority of preferring the HW95 stock over the R9 version. So I'm wondering which of the two HW stocks the CS stocks come closest to. Also, everyone that's had one seems to very much like the way the CS stocks fit, despite the clearly obvious differences in different shooters' physical attributes and skills, which prompts asking how do they manage to work so well for so many different people.

Interested Potential Punter

Interesting...


Where ZeroMark’s offering differs most substantially is in its motorized articulating buttstock, which uses the data from the sensors to help physically move the gun’s point of aim. This, in turn, helps the shooter engage the target with greater precision and speed.

I decided it had been a couple weeks since I landed one, so I figured they'd be dumb enough to come back now. I set the cuff with mini marshmallows and went to bed.

Woke up around 6am and went out with the 25 cal jumbo and my red torch. 2 big glowing eyes looking up at me. No footage this time, just aftermath.

They sure do make a mess! It knocked my shooting bucket all to hell, so I gotta go out with the shop vac and clean up all the dumped pellets lol.

Wind was calm this morning, so I took my wildcat out for a shoot. I have been using a red dot for a few weeks now and getting really nice groups, considering I have a slight stigmatism, I decided to re-install my Athlon 1-6x24 I had removed for the red dot and to my surprise it was (on the money) target @ 50 yards 5 shots JSB 18gr light tail wind. Forgot to mention the sun was low and at my back and I could see the pellets in flight. Also no adjustment's to the scope.

This may, or may not interest some of you; Having worked my way up and down the Airgun food chain, including associated equipment; cheap to expensive to stupid expensive for the last 3 years, I’m finally settling in, or zeroing in on my TWO current favorite's, one is a bullpup, the other a traditional rifle. Still waiting on my carbine version of the Thomas to come Jan 2025.

Presently:

The Brocock Ghost bullpup in carbine form, in .177 caliber with a 300cc bottle with a Sightron S-Tac 4-20X50 scope for general pesting and plinking; but also works great for HFT. For precision like Benchrest I change the Ghosts bottle to a 700 cc and use the 28” Fady K. World Record Barrel in .22. I also switch to a higher power Bench Rest type scope.
With a Ghost I can choose any of 5 different barrels in 4 different calibers.
The Ghost is an amazing and highly adaptable platform that I can shift from any popular caliber to the next in less than 10 minutes; especially once you have learned and recorded your tunes! 5 shots after caliber change it’s settled and ready to go.

Next up is:

Daystate’s Redwolf “not hp” in .177. I use it mainly for my obsession with HFT using Sightron’s newest S6 FT offering pushing 13.4’s at 810 FPS. I have the HP version also but for my general use the non HP is my preferred. You have three tunes available; I chose low pwr WFTF legal 8.44’s at 715 FPS, HFT legal med pwr 10.3’s at 888 FPS, and HFT legal high pwr is 13.4’s at 815 fps.

For EFT or UFT or whatever you call it, I’m using a Daystate Redwolf in .25 cal with a Sightron S3 PLR for 20-100 yards shooting with JTS 33 gr Diablos at 910 FPS.

Meanwhile

If you’re into pistols, I’m still sorting my pistol passions but for HFT <12 fpe, my .20 cal RAW TM 1000 is stellar out to 55 yards using a Sightron S-Tac 4-20x50. I get over 200 shots with this setup on a single fill.

The Marauder <12 HFT pistol built by Airgun Revsions comes in a definite 2nd using the same scope but with Benji 10.65’s; but the small air tube means refilling is required during a match.

Most recently I’m fiddling with the Brocock Atomic .177 currently shooting 8.44’s set for <12 fpe but I’m wanting to try it at <20 fpe for extreme pistol FT; also using the S-Tac 4-20x50.

The Atomic like the Marauder pistols are lightweight but because of air consumption, last on my list, as are most tube type PCP’s are because its wise to carry an additional air source with you.

How have you come full circle with your choices?

Howdy all. Impact X with power plenum. I have a slow leak that goes down about 10psi in 24 hours. I used leak detectors several times but was still unable to find any leaks. Today I removed the bottle and after less than a minute all the air rushed out the gun from the front valve where the bottle connects.
Reg pressure is set to 100 bar
Bottle pressure was 210 Bar before removal. Gauge stayed the same after removed and then the gun emptied to zero after about 1 min.
I want to know if this is normal as I cannot remember this happening before when I used to adjust reg pressure etc. I am going crazy trying to figure out what's the issue.
I had rebuilt the regulator about 2 years ago and had no issues since then. (had a visible leak from reg at that time).
Your help would be greatly appreciated.

I’m sure this has been discussed many times before. I’m new and can’t find a consistent answer on this, so I’m starting from scratch.

I’m new to tuning and don’t understand whether you tune to FPS or FPE. My use case is target / plinking & small pests. As I was tinkering with the REG Settings and HS, I’ve measured the JSB Hades (.25) on the chrono in a variety of speeds - from mid 800’s to upper 900’s. My reg settings have been 120 (Front) and 80 to 100 (Rear) - overall I’m averaging ~120 shots per cycle.

I don’t see a difference related to accuracy standpoint (other than I need to become a better shooter), but I do realize the difference the pellet hits the target. As I’m shooting 50 to 75 yds currently and have the space to extend that (hoping to get closer to 100 yds before long). Use case is target shooting & pest control.

I don’t ‘want’ to go down the rabbit hole of SD / ES, just want to keep things consistent. What’s the optimal SD / ES ranges y’all target?

Do you typically tune for a specific FPS or Target FPE (to figure out your FPS), considering distance of 50 to 75 yds and/or 75 to 100 yds?