I ran out of pellets and the temps are supposed to drop to highs in the mid 30's, which raised the question in my mind, when is it too cold to tune?

Once again I find myself with more moderators than air guns . Heaven knows , I don't need an excuse to buy another air gun ! I need to find these suppressors a new home. They all are 1/2 x 20 unf thread. No known issues look good and tame the bark.

First is the Donnie Fl Tanto .25 cal. $85 ***SOLD***

Next Huggett Belita cone cap .177/.22 cal $110 ***SOLD***

Last Huggett Mini Magna .25 cal $140 ***SOLD***

Prices include insured shipping with tracking to the conus. Not interested in trades or offers at this time. Please deal by pm. Thanks for looking.
Herb

Looking for stock only for LD pistol. Something like photo. Deal by email with photos and price. Pay pal works for me. (Scammers will be reported to proper authorities.) [email protected].

Check out the Avenge-X Ultimate Tuning Guide HERE!

For Christmas I finally broke down and bought a Competition Electronics ProChrono DLX. I wanted to see exactly where my 3 Weihrauch's stood. performance wise.
The oldest of the bunch, the HW95 (with a new Vortek PG4 Tune kit) perfomed as expected with an average 765fps shooting H&N Baracuda Match 10.65g pellets.
The HW90, after pumping a tad more air into it, is shooting 905fps average using the same pellets.

This is where Im totally confused and a bit peeved. My HW80 with very little pellets ran throught it (probably less than 250), is averaging a mere 425fps using the same 10.65g H&N's. This rifle is supposed to be a "Magnum" springer or so I thought, yet my Benji & Sheridan's blow it out of the water as far as power goes.

Any idea why Im getting such lackluster performance out of this HW80? Its NEVER been stored cocked, thats for sure. Do I need to break down and buy a Vortek kit for this one as well ? The Vortek kits are smooth as silk and I love how it tamed the HW95, but I read somewhere that power may suffer if I treid putting the kit in the HW80. It seems at this point I have nothing to loose. Geeze.

Video Chapters (also available in YouTube video description):

0:00 Video Overview and What to Expect
1:33 Airgun Parts You Need to Know (Regulator, Hammer, Hammer Spring, Valve)
3:45 What-Why-How of Airgun Tuning and 120 Yard 34gr Mk2 Pellet Stability Test
4:54 Getting Familiar with the Avenge-X and Airgun Parts Overview
7:55 How Do You Actually Go About Tuning? (Steps you Take)
11:16 Step-By-Step Tune Creation Demo/Walkthrough and the "Tuning Rainbow"
21:03 JSB 25.39gr "910 Tune" and 50 Yard Validation (un-moderated)
23:23 JSB 25.39gr "910 Tune" and 50 Yard Validation (moderated with DonnyFL Ryu)
24:14 JSB 25.39gr "910 Tune" and 120 Yard Stability Test
25:45 JSB 25.39gr "910 Tune" and 50 Yard Validation (moderated with Impulse Air 1350)
28:05 JSB 33.95gr Mk2 "850 Tune" and 50 Yard Validation (un-moderated)
30:22 JSB 33.95gr Mk2 "850 Tune" and 50 Yard Validation (moderated with DonnyFL Yokozuna)
32:27 My Personal Airgun Equipment (tank, valve, tank bag, compressor)
33:10 JSB 33.95gr Mk2 "850 Tune" and 50 Yard Validation (moderated with DonnyFL Ryu)
34:57 NSA 33.5gr Slugs "Max Power Tune" 120 Yard Validation
37:35 Zan Projectiles 33gr Slugs "Max Power Tune" 120 Yard Validation
38:19 NEW Hawke Sidewinder Scope 30FFP 4-16x50 30mm MOA
39:56 Zan Projectiles 30gr Slugs "Max Power Tune" 120 Yard Validation
40:07 Predator GTO 16.5gr Tin Pellet "Eco Tune"
41:50 Video Wrap-Up


Avenge-X Tunes (.25 cal)













Airgun Parts You Need to Know

Regulator - The regulator takes a higher varying air pressure and turns it into a lower steady one.

Valve - The valve takes the steady flow of air coming out of the regulator, and with the help of the hammer, turns it into a metered pulse to push the pellet or slug out of the barrel (plenum).

Hammer - the hammer collides with the valve, briefly opening it, allowing a metered pulse of air to pass into the barrel (hammer spring)

Ballistic Chronograph - a “chrony” uses light sensors or doppler radar to measure the velocity of your projectile at the muzzle, with some models being able to track velocity from muzzle to target as well.


Airgun Tuning - WHAT / WHY / HOW?

What is Tuning?
"It's the process by which we adjust the gun into a state of harmony & accuracy for any ammo or weather conditions."

Why do we do it?
“We tune to control performance, so that we can achieve the best accuracy, power, and efficiency no matter what.”

How do we go about it?
"With an organized approach, we search & test for system harmony (reg/hammer balance points) at an accurate velocity.”

Tuning = Search-Adjust-Control (SAC) for Accuracy - Velocity - Stability - Consistency - Efficiency - Harmonics - Power Output



Tuning Process (same for any adjustable PCP airgun)

The first thing I want you to do is pick a random reg pressure to start out with… don't care what it is, so long as it’s on the lower side of what you’ve heard is good & proper.

Next, I want you to back way-off your hammer spring tension, begin shooting over a chrony, and slowly bring the HS tension up, until your shot-to-shot velocity just begins to stabilize… taking at least 10 shots to be sure.

Now STOP, that newly found HS balance point marks an ideal place to be for the reg pressure you just chose. Take note, you’re close to a sweet spot.

Continue to tighten your HS tension, in ultra small bits at a time now, until you observe your shot-to-shot velocity really tighten up… like within 1-3 fps of one-another. STOP, you’ve arrived.

Don't increase the HS tension much past this balance point, or you’ll cross over into the right side of the tuning rainbow.

Now if you need more or less speed, that’s okay, but go to the reg, not the HS. Try not to use the HS as a velocity control device… for the most part, that’s the regulator’s job! Remember, “the regulator is the master flow control.” The HS is just there to balance the valve out with your reg setting.

If you need more velocity, increase the reg pressure and repeat the above steps to rebalance the HS tension to match. If you need less velocity, reduce the reg pressure and rebalance the hammer spring to match.

Now that you’ve got the basics of how to go about locating balance points between regulator pressure and HS tension, begin testing varying velocities for accuracy… and test at a minimum of 50 yds (75 yards is better).

Along the way, it’s important to rebalance your reg/HS selection for each new velocity tested, otherwise your accuracy results won’t be reliable. And always work the HS from low to high and slowly. Hammering up past the sweet spot is super easy to do.

As you go, repeat the above steps, until you find a velocity at which the projectile becomes its most accurate… and doesn’t hook, wobble, or corkscrew in flight.

Then, go build yourself out a nice clean tune around that speed… it’s that easy.


Key Things to Remember While Tuning Any Airgun
* Let the reg be your velocity throttle, the hammer spring setting just brings the rest of the system into harmony with your chosen reg pressure.
* All you’re doing with tuning is balancing out the forces between your reg pressure and hammer spring tension… at your chosen velocity.
* When searching for a new HS setting to balance out with a new reg pressure setting, always work the HS adjustments from low to high and right up to the point of velocity stabilization and NOT PAST… this will keep you on the left side of the tuning rainbow.
* If you slowly HS your way up the left side of the tuning rainbow, then observe velocity level out, you’ve arrived at that reg pressure's desired HS setting. If you continue to HS past it and observe erratic velocity or sometimes descending velocity, you’ve crossed over to the right side of the rainbow and you’ve overshot the HS balance point for that reg setting.
* Always stay on the left side of the tuning rainbow to avoid erratic fps, hammer bounce, waste air, and accuracy-ruining projectile instability.
* The left side of the rainbow is desirable because it is a place where the reg pressure is quickly closing the valve after the hammer smacks it open, creating a place of efficiency and eliminating turbulence-causing waste air.
* If you want more speed and can’t get there with the Reg/HS in a state of balance (consistent velocity) add more reg, back off the HS, and repeat the process… don’t let the HS be your go-to for increasing velocity. That’s the reg’s job.
* Learn your gun’s "Reg Pressure Road Map" by taking note of the velocity balance point at each reg pressure setting.
* Field tune for the right velocity (for that pellet/slug) in the wind at 50+ yards to ensure that projectile stability is there, then go home and build a clean tune around that speed.
* Obsess over ES & SD not because of shot-to-shot consistency but because the tightness indicates a fast-closing valve with minimum waste air emerging around the projectile as it leaves the barrel.


Golden Rules of Tuning
1) Know the speed needs of your projectile (diabolo vs redesign vs slugs).
2) Stability trumps accuracy (pellets can hook & wobble into one hole at 50 yards, then scatter in the wind or by the time they get to 100).
3) Speed trumps tune (a velocity that gets you accuracy is more important than a tight ES & SD... the pros dial velocity on the fly all the time… find the right speed then build a tune around it).
4) If one wants more or less velocity, go to the reg… that’s your master flow control, not the HS. Only use the HS to balance out the valve with your chosen reg setting.
5) Ammo matters… a lot (find the one the barrel likes and at what speed, and sort for reliable accuracy).

Steve

---

*For a chance to WIN the Avenge-X and much more follow this LINK to enter the Giveaway.

I never considered how cold an aluminum forearm/barrel shroud would be to grip.
Spent about 20 min waiting for a rat to show in winter weather with my hands in my pocket.
Rat makes an appearance and I shoulder the gun. OMG!

SA LRS RIFLE SCOPE​

The SA LRS is the result of a unique collaboration between Schmidt & Bender and Scandinavian Arms to offer the best optical sight for competition shooters around the world.​

Through our years as competition shooters, SA recognized the need to make better optics available to a wider audience. After years of evaluating the scope market we decided to build our scope around Schmidt & Bender’s brilliant and trusted 5-25x56PMII scope.
The industry benchmark in terms of optical quality and mechanical reliability.

Key features​

• Unmatched parallax ranges from 10m to infinity.
• Specially designed turrets and magnification ring.
• The 1st focal plane Multi Competition Reticle.
• Perfect for your airgun and Long Range rifle.
• Easier adjusting these when wearing gloves.

READ MORE!

Question for the experts. I bought a newl k1 in 25 cal, it will shoot but every once in a while I’ll pull the trigger, it will fire and then it will degas the cylinder. What am I doing wrong?

We decided to bring in the new year with a mountain drive and after a while noticed a beautiful, rocky mountain side with some nice patches of gravel and loose dirt that makes for great ELR shooting conditions. I pulled out the rangefinder and ranged anywhere from about 648 to 750+ yards. Perfect!

After selecting what I figured would be the best spot to see my Impacts, I ranged it at 718 yards. I quickly set up my portable bench, M3, and dialed to the necessary MOA on the Absolute MOA Digital Readout with my Coldshot base. I only had a handful of prototype slugs in a couple variations to try but figured this would be a great spot to test them out.

After getting some good results I saved a few slugs to shoot on video. So I set up my tripod/spotting scope, attached my phone, and started sending. INCOMING!!!!!!!

I believe my first shot on the video was a hit but the area is way too difficult to get to for verification.

Well, maybe a little extreme, but my Huben K1 pushed my GX CS3 to the max ... and it sprung a leak. I had to remove the included two piece black cylinder with the white filter accessory at the end of the hose. Is there a better replacement piece to catch moisture etc that is compact and easily serviced? Yes, the CS3 has the built in filter, but I had the CS2 black filter assembly and added for potentially a little more filtering. Is it worth adding something more than what the GX CS3 already has?

Talon Tunes really delivered. Tony @ TT really set me up with this new P-3. I own two Impact M3's, however, I have zero confidence they were holding a zero when a fat juicy dove lands on my fence. I've had too many misses because of that. After bumming a buddy's Prophet 2 for a few thousand rounds, I went ahead and "upgraded" to a gun that can hold a zero. I'm not bashing FX here. They are top notch range/comp rifles. I just needed a rock solid hunting rifle (daily driver) that can still shine at the range.

I had a question for any Prophet owners out there:

1) Is the air bleed screw that grub screw right smack in the middle of the butt plate after the rubber pad is removed?
2) Does anybody know if the side plates on the P3 are the same as on the previous Prophets and/or Priest? The reason I'm asking is I'm going to get those custom cut in carbon fiber.

Selling my mint Notos as a package deal. Comes with original box, Vicoptics S6 scope, UTG pro rings, two Carm mags (the best), one original mag and fill probe. Zero leaks, deadly accurate.

$360 shipped, payment via Venmo or PayPal.

Dove into a 2022 Huben K1 .25 and ran into loose Zan slugs which jammed on test spinning the magazine. So what is the deal with .250, .253, .254 ? Is there rounding up or down in general or is this specific to Huben or semi/full auto PCPs? Must be some slight differences between pellets and slugs in the same size(s)?

What's wrong with my gun? — Look at this shot string!​

● Gun: RTI Prophet 2 Compact Performance .25cal
● Pellet: .25cal — JSB Dome 25.39
● Balanced valve️
● HST: About 1/4 turn further in than the setting where velocity drops off rapidly.


Start conditions:
▪ AIR pressure in 240cc bottle 290bar
▪ REGulator 145bar


Observations:
The velocity spread of nearby shots is very small (good!).

The first two shots are extremely low (the gun sat for 5 days). ➧ Horror for hunting!

After 25 shots, the regulator pressure gauge shows a decline of 10 bar.
And the MV shows a decline by about 20fps.
This decline continues.
➧ Very ungood.



Shot String:
The worrysome numbers are in bold.

——AIR 290 | REG 145
637fps
729
967
965
971
——AIR 275 | REG 140
974
970
973
974
973
——AIR 250 | REG 140
967
966
970
970
963
——AIR 235 | REG 140
<EDIT: I'm so sorry, I failed to enter the following 5 shots, now corrected! Thanks nervoustrig!>
962
963
964
963
959
——AIR 220 | REG 137
954
951
954
955
952
——AIR 195 | REG 135
953
950
944
949
953
——AIR 180 | REG 130
947
944
941
945
946
——AIR 160 | REG 130
944
940
943
939
949
——AIR 142 | REG 128
938
943
944
943
942
——AIR 130 | REG 128
938
937
931
934
923
——AIR 120 | REG 121
925
916
911
904
894
——AIR 113 | REG 113



I appreciate your comments and suggestions.
THANKS!

Matthias

So I was watching the news and eating and heard a strange howling sound coming from outside. At first I thought is was a whiney compressor from a natural gas pumping station. After it stopped I then heard it again about 7 minutes later. So I cut off the lights and began trying to watch the yard through a window. I saw no movement and didn't have any NV or thermal gear on hand. I then went to another couple of windows to see if I could get a better view. Then I switched rooms. Still I saw nothing. It sounded like some sort of dog to me, but it wasn't a coyote. I thought maybe it's a feral dog. Then after a while I left the window, turned the lights back on, and finished eating. As I finished my meal, I remembered that I needed to bring some gear in from my truck. When I went outside and walked towards my truck I caught a silhouette and a shiny pair of eyes looking back at me to my left. There was a perfectly lighted backdrop revealing a compact frame, with short but slender legs, an elongated body, and a bushy tail. It was too tall to be a raccoon, but looked too short and compact to be a coyote. I started to head back in the house for a rifle, but when I moved it bolted for the woods. It was in the vicinity of a scrap pile I'd been tossing outside for the animals. I suspected that it was a fox by its outline. When I came inside I YouTubed "Fox Howls" and heard some similar sounds. The only difference was that this one had a deeper voice than the uploaded recordings. Otherwise the cadence and tones were very similar. It sounded like a mating call. So I looked up fox mating season in East Texas and it is from December/January to February and I read they are active at night. This was pretty awesome. I hardly ever see foxes. I can remember seeing maybe three in my life. Anybody hunt foxes in the Southern U.S. know anything about their howls or mating calls? I'm glad I didn't have anything to shoot it with. I don't have a reason to kill any foxes at the moment. I've read that they along with skunks are some of the main carriers of rabies in these parts, but this one appears to have exhibited normal behavior by running off after we locked eyes and I moved a little too much. And as I type this, it has returned to the yard and is howling again. I think I'll have a closer look.

...and a whole lot of other goodness!



Follow this LINK to enter the Giveaway!

I'm getting ready to finish the walnut stock on our ProSport. It looks like Air Arms didn't put any kind of sealer at all on it. It looks like it's just bare wood.

I've been planning to use Birchwood Casey Sealer & Filler, followed by Birchwood Casey TruOil finish on it. But in looking at it, it looks like I have a few small dents in the stock I need to iron out first.

Will Birchwood Casey Sealer & Filler make it more resistant to scratches and dents?

When I refinished our HW97K beech stock, after I stripped off the old finish and ironed and / or sanded out the dents on it, I used MinWax Wood Hardener on it. I love that stuff. It'll take old wood that's so deteriorated that it's spongy and turn it rock hard. The only downside to it is that you're supposed to apply it to the bare wood, and then stain or paint it; but once you've treated it with this stuff, no stain will possibly penetrate it. Plus, it's kind of nasty to work with.

Not an issue with the ProSport, as it doesn't need stained.

After I used the wood hardener on the HW97K stock, I tried putting some Birchwood Casey Sealer & Filler on it -- I'd never used it before -- and it seemed like it what it did was really no different than the wood hardener. It looked like they both were just wood sealers. Except the Birchwook Casey Sealer & Filler wasn't so nasty to work with and clean up.

So, if the Birchwood Casey Sealer & Filler will make the stock more resistant to scratches and dents, I'd be inclined to just use it, since it's nicer to work with. But if it won't, I'd be inclined to use the wood hardener on it, too.

--

Also, I've been using this ProSport for three months with it not having any finish on it. Just bare wood. I've been thinking to clean any grime from my hands, etc. off with Denatured Alcohol. Any recommendations for me to use something else?

--

Advice appreciated!

So I have...

.22 & .25 cal airgun & suppressor on my FAC

I have .25 gun.

Now I want to change to an fx impact but have 2 barrels. A .22 and a .25
But only the one gun.

Because why waste money buying 2 FX impacts when barrels interchange

Can this be done?

Has anyone tried this or have this?

FAC not sub 12..

After the sad experience with my sidewinder at the airport I remembered that my PCP provider lives in the city nearby where we are hunting.

I sent him a WhatsApp asking him to rent me a .30 Cal air rifle.

Went with my brother to see him (bad idea to bring my brother). As we arrived to the shop of my PCP provider he show us the BRK Ghost….. My bother immediately told me: “Buy it”!!!

I going back to the ranch with a BRK Ghost ……

i got 1 tin 30 cal pellets and a set 30mm scope rings 20$ shiped on them tow items i also got 5 mags for sale 22 cal they fit p35 or stoger xm1 bull pup 15 each on mags or sell as a hole for 55$ shiped on all 5 mags

I shoot 25 meter benchrest and may at some point start shooting the 50 yard bench rest. I have an FX Impact M3, .22 cal.

Anyway, I have decided that I would like to purchase the Trijicon Tenmile 5-50x scope for my benchrest shooting. My quandary is which reticle to choose. I currently own mil scopes (NF ATACR 7-35x, Stiener M7xi 4-28x, Athlon Cronus BTR 4.5-29x) and I’m kind of use the mil platform. I have had MOA scopes in the past, too. I was just wondering which reticle would suit my needs for 25m and 50 yard benchrest, or does it even matter?

View attachment Tenmile_MRAD.pdf

View attachment Tenmile_MOA.pdf

Krale shows back in stock https://www.krale.shop/us/weihrauch-hw30-s/

This has been bouncing around in my head for a while.

The shocks on motorcycles are easily (and externally) adjusted for pre-load, so why not springer airguns? Wouldn't it simplify things if you could tune the gun to the pellet instead of buying/trying pellets to work well with the gun?

I can think of at least two ways that it could be accomplished, and I'm not that smart. I did search the web and haven't found anthing substantial on the subject. If the Crosman Quest 1000(!) that I had to tame had come with a simple adjustment, I'd probably shoot it more... I'd also be finding out what tension shot which pellet the best.

Thoughts? Am I behind the curve here?

Cheers,

J~