Picked up this rare SKB 53 .177 Japanese pellet rifle today.

SOLD, NO LONGER AVAILABLE
FX Hunter Compact .22 with original hard case and papers, in MINT condition

480cc carbon fiber bottle mounted on front. Below that is a Saber Tactical ARCA rail (protects bottle). Upscale AR Folding stock with FX folding adapter. ALSO includes OE buttstock.

Saber Tactical ARCA rail, Zulus 5-20 Day-Night Vision scope, FAB Defense combo forward grip and bipod, Eylar hard case, 38" and DonnyFL quick connect on muzzle are not included at price of $1700 but if you are interested in those items, I am sure we can come to an agreement

So, to be clear, $1700 gets you this Mint FX Hunter Compact in .22 with original and folding buttstock and OE FX hard case for it. Image shown is actual image of this item.

At LEAST 3 magazines included. FX Folding stock adapter and buffer tube and castle nut included as well as FX Drop don adapter.

Located in Fairfield County CT. Local pickup is available.

No sales tax.

Payment with Zelle at this price. If you want to use PayPal, add 4.5% to cover my fees,

Must me 21 or older to purchase. I only ship within Continental USA. I will not sell or ship to residents of NYC 5 boroughs, New Jersey, Washington DC, Los Angeles or anywhere else where possession/ownership of this is prohibited by law/ordinance.

This gun does not and has never leaked. Perfect like new conditioned. Already tuned for JSB 25.39gn pellets.

Buyer pays actual shipping cost. UPS Ground preferred.

I am selling because I want the Hunter Compact in .30 and have one on the way to me.

Daystate Air Wolf Tactical .25
Has 2 magazines and a single shot tray.
Carbon bottle.
Huggett moderator and shroud.
New battery.
Orings less than 1 year old.
New LCD screen.
Scope is Hawke (Sidewinder, I think) 8.5x25x42 Half mil-dot. Illuminated
Compensator has a scratch on the end of it. (pic included)

When I switched to a carbon bottle, the oring started leaking so they all got replaced. I THOUGHT the battery was dying so i replaced it only to learn that the screen was failing. My mistake means new parts for you.
Can ship within the ConUS
Located near San Antonio Texas
$1400

I know as a tuner I've been here before, tho been Years since doing an R7 / HW30 and this time around it was personal !! ... Lol

Tearing it apart did a ball hone job on inner tube surfaces placing a nice cross hatch on compression bore & also deburring the cocking slot & holes that the seal must pass over when fitting said seal and final assembly. Cleaned it up and fitted a new ARH seal for nice light fit ( These low power guns need a loose fit to have any chance at OEM power output )
Polished tail of piston and checked latch rod run out in the lathe which did need a tad of straightening out. Next up using 3/4" ACETAL rod made up a spring guide that was a light slip fit to the OEM spring & then opened up washer a tad to fit this now obviously larger diameter spring guide. Made a thin Top lat for piston end of spring. The spring ends gets dress flatter on the belt sander with a small bevel at coils end so it does not dig in while rotating.

Inside the piston ( Spring bore ) gets a thick plastic water bottle liner cut to butt ends and flush out just shy of end once seated having butt gap 180* from cocking slot. The plastic liner on outside gets scratched up heavily with 80 grit and then we'll call glued in with heavy tar which will hold it in place. Tar is ONLY between liner and inner wall of piston !!!! As a lighter spring grease will be used ultimately.

Out on the Yoke end of main tube a little bit of stoning of surface where the thin thrust washers reside ( Factory surface on this one was ROUGH )
Using a flat stone & WD-40 just kissing the high spots around washer placement will smooth up the cocking further.
The cocking linkages lower surface that contacts tube was also stoned flat & polished up with 600 wet.dry. The tube forward of cocking slot deburred and also smoothed up.
The slot itself cleaned up and the sides of the slot stoned and 600 smoothed up full length.

At this juncture we get out the lubes and get the primary action reassembled. Barrel pivot and washers, lower cocking linkage get heavy moly grease, Piston bore and behind seal my proprietary moly/graphite/oil blend, as well within tube at piston skirt to bore. Lucas Red-N-Sticky on spring & guide. Gets assembled setting it aside for the moment.

Trigger next .... No need to disassemble as these Rekord units really just need correct adjusting of the Intermediate link screw ( Torx head No touch it screw ) spring preload screw behind trigger blade & bending of the tab stop forward of blade. All done we have a short 1st stage, No creep & VERY crisp break with light tension on trigger blade .. Perfection !
Reinstall the trigger block after placing some moly grease on sear, and other catch /release linkages with white grease on safety plunger & spring ( grease on spring stops the Twang of releasing safety and some noise upon firing )

We're done and get action back into stock with loc-tite on screws.
Cock & release moving piston up & down bore @ 10 times or so to distribute lube from piston to the comp chamber walls. Next cocking is live fire with a jsb 8.4 ... THUMP hardly having action move and making ZERO mechanical noise from spring, piston, linkages etc ... just a sublime light bump & thump being just what we wanted.

For those reading along ... yes some very detailed info shared as my days doing spring gun tuning for hire is or has wound down after 10+ years of commercial service work.
If you understand what said ? ..... Apply it to your next home grown springer tune ... you'll like it

I just can’t express it well enough, however I’m super excited about just how great a $150. Pcp pistol can be enjoyed! I have 2 each of the Beeman 2027 and 2028 and two will be Buck Railed into carbines. If you are interested in a fun gun try one of these! Don’t think you will be disappointed! Charles

I am normally shooting right handed but since young I learned to shoot left handed as well. Not as good but I can help myself. This week I had a small accident and my right arm is in plaster and will be for some weeks if not longer. So, now the left handed shooting that I did learn will come in handy, I must just concentrate and practice more to be accurate. Tomorrow will be the first time in a long time I will be shooting left handed. Even typing here on the computer takes longer as I can only use one hand.

Picked up this “Revelation” model, made by Crosman for Western Auto Supply Co. It’s a rebranded Crosman 760. First three numbers are 576, so I think it’s a 1976. I didn’t take an initial picture but it was very rough. Non functional. Rusty, nasty looking wood. A $15 special. It’s a smooth bore. I decided to embrace its rustic character. I had this old Williams scope lying around forever. Still waiting on a pump cup, so the picture is a mock with no internals. I’m still trying to decide which receiver finish I like the best. The first one is just polished. The middle one is distressed. The bottom one is fully colored. Opinions welcome.

This post is a grossly over-simplified explanation of some mechanical hammer behaviors and the variables that are often able to be manipulated.


What is the hammer in a PCP? It is what carries kinetic energy and momentum to deliver a blow to the poppet within a PCP's valve, which upon impact of the valve stem, decompresses the poppet from the seat, and with the remaining energy, produces what is called Lift, and Dwell. The hammer lock time is the time the hammer takes to strike the valve stem once you pull the trigger. The less compressible the poppet material, the more energy left over to produce Lift/Dwell, which is why peek is a popular material among tuners over other thermoplastics, as peek has a high young modulus while still being soft enough to create a seal.


What are the primary factors that determine the available kinetic energy?

• Spring Rating
• Total spring tension, includes pre-load and cocking distance to engage the sear under spring tension.
• (Hammer weight is notable mention as without any hammer weight you create none, however adding/removing nominal weight does not change KE)
• (Hammer Gap aka free flight notable mention, however when nominal the effect is minimal)

What are the primary factors the determine the hammer momentum? (in order of importance)

• Hammer weight
• Hammer travel (distance hammer travels between sear and valve stem)
• Spring rating
• Spring Pre-load

What are the primary factors that determine hammer lock time / velocity? (order of importance)

• Hammer travel
• Spring rating
• Total Spring tension
• Hammer weight
• (notable mention, Hammer Gap aka free flight, however minimal when set at optimal distance)

Shown below is a relatively stock looking .25 cal Marauder. Lock time is roughly 7.8 ms, force to cock the gun is 10.8 lbs.




Now, what happens if we simply reduce the Travel from .75" to .5", using the adjustments allowed on the gun by increasing the distance the striker protrudes from the hammer...



The velocity is reduced as well as lock time from 7.8 to 6.8 ms, but at a great expense of reduced momentum and kinetic energy transferred from hammer to valve stem, which will result in much less lift and dwell being produced, if the hammer can even knock the valve off its seat. What would be needed to restore the momentum and energy transferred? More spring and/or hammer weight, but adjustment within the gun only allows spring, so you'd have to crank down on the preload a LOT to restore power back to the original settings, or fabricate a new hammer.

Shown here, is an increase of .6" of preload which restores the energy needed to operate the valve, which knocked down lock time even more, down to 5.2 ms, however, now the gun is much more difficult to cock, at 13.6 lbs. For a bolt action that is a bit much for most users, however for a side lever gun, no big deal.




What if we want to change hammer weight, and leave the stock travel alone? Lets reduce the hammer from 78grams to 50 grams.




Now we've lost quite a bit of momentum, which will result in less dwell, so we will have to hit the valve harder with more spring be it preload or a higher rated spring, producing more lift, to restore the necessary dwell we once had, which will result in, again, a harder to cock gun. This simple calculator won't tell you the exact amount, but below is an example of what probably would restore the gun to original power...

Shown is simply an increase from 8 lb spring to 10 lb spring...thus the gun is harder to cock than stock (from 10.8 lbs up to 13.5 lbs), however, the lock time is now 4.4ms and we exchanged momentum for more kinetic energy, which is favorable for mitigating hammer bounce.




As you add lift to a valve (primarily determined by KE/FPE), you add dwell as it takes the poppet longer to return to the valve seat, however, if you were to add dwell with a heavier hammer, you won't add lift. Once lift exceeds roughly 1/4 of the valve throats porting equivalent (after considering the cross sectional surface area of the stem within it), your valve's mass air flow rate does not increase, this is commonly referred to as the valves flow curtain, in effect, this means once the curtains height is exceeded, you're creating more dwell, and not adding more flow rate. An example would be a .23" ported gun, once lift exceeds roughly .0575", the flow rate does not increase, only the duration of max flow rate the valve can achieve. Heavier hammers allow more dwell by remaining in contact with the stem for a longer period due to conservation of momentum. Momentum decays much slower than Kinetic Energy, akin to comparing stopping a train going 15 mph versus stopping a drag car going 100 mph, which is why heavier hammers are more prone to hammer bounce, as their momentum conservation is greater than that of a lighter hammer, while kinetic energy decays rapidly in inelastic conditions, which is what we experience in our PCPs, and is more favorable for managing hammer bounce, as well as producing quicker hammer lock times.

One may ask, why doesn't hammer weight greatly effect kinetic energy by itself? The answer to that is, the kinetic energy is stored in the hammer springs tension once compressed, adding weight to the hammer results in less hammer velocity, resulting in near equal energy output upon decompression of the spring, given optimal conditions.

What is Hammer Gap? Commonly referred to as free flight, it is a distance where the hammer is traveling without the assistance of compression from the spring, this in essence, basically kills two birds with one stone. The distance that the hammer has to travel is the gap distance twice prior to returning to the valve stem, so a .03" gap forces the hammer to travel .06" prior to secondary strikes. This distance allows time for the poppet to return to its seat and fully compress, making it more difficult to re-open, as well as a distance that assists in the decay of both momentum and kinetic energy that is transferred by the closing force of a valve, that's right, the valve closes often so violently, that it sends the hammer flying back, and without gap or a short stiff spring or the like in place, what happens is re-compression of the hammer spring, which in many conditions, produces enough of both momentum and kinetic energy to strike the valve again with enough power, before the poppet returns to the seat, producing a secondary blast of air that doesn't contribute to projectile velocity. Only caveat to hammer gap is, the more you add, the more you have to compensate the 'free flight' with added spring pre-load, or hammer travel. Nominal gap is generally 1mm-1.2mm or .04"-.047", however bigger bores with heavier springs likely benefit from a bit more.

Attached is a basic spreadsheet that will calculate all of the above data. It may be useful to someone so, I thought I'd share a stand-alone of these calculations, available as XLSX.

Keep in mind this is a simple spread sheet meant to represent the relationship between hammer travel, hammer spring pre-load, hammer weight. No losses are calculated in the sheet currently, such as gravity, friction, angle of shot, and air resistance.

*edit* modified the spreadsheet thanks to @caliusoptimus for pointing out a flaw in a calculation, spreadsheet now uses both Average force * distance method and a Potential energy method provided by caliusoptimus.



-Matt

View attachment Hammer_Data_Calculations.xlsx

Here we have a lightly used Brocock atomic in .22 caliber. Small rub mark on air tube shown in photo. Adjustable stock and a 0db moderator. Includes one factory flip down magazine, fill probe and double top rail. Last photo shows stock extended. $925.00 shipped OBRO to the lower 48 only. Prefer PPFF but regular PP is ok too.

Selling my beautiful Revere because I don’t have time to shoot HFT. No damage. I’ve had since new. Gun shoots the 10.34 at about 870. Comes with one magazine, fill probe and a single shot tray. No leaks. No issues. No scope. Asking $1400 shipped will ship CONUS. UPS GROUND AND ADULT SIGNATURE REQUIRED

Looking for the best ballistic app for air gunning. What is everyone using and enjoying?

EuroOptic has some popular Athlons on sale including the ETR 4.5-30 for $750 and Midas Tac for $380.

If they can sell them this low, I’m sure others can too. I know those are both really popular around here and I have never seen them that low, even from my dealer how always gave me the lowest prices.

The Midas Tac is an especially good scope and is killer at this price. I am wondering if a new generation is coming, so they are clearing out stock??

Looking to trade whole jsar raptor setup for high end optic

Just a cautionary tale of trends that I’m seeing from larger online retailers. They send you a coupon code, you build a cart, you successfully apply the code, but when you check out the promo disappears. If you try to reapply the code, it just says invalid. No merchandise excluded warning, no add xyz dollar amount to qualify, no coupon expired, no first time use/in-app only, it just doesn’t work. May be innocent mistakes with programming, but it feels like retailers hope you check out before you notice, or are too invested in your cart full of junk that you don’t care and buy it anyway. I’ve had this happen at Bud’s, Midway, and two food product retailers unrelated to shooting sports pretty recently.

Then, cheaperthandirt (I know, I know) let me add product, select economy shipping, add payment data, and on the confirmation page under the giant “place order” button I noticed a small box in the corner showing the price had gone up $289.99. Without my input or permission, they updated my economy shipping to next day, overnight. Nice try.

I don’t know if these practices actually qualify as scams since the data is technically there upfront and is still subject to the customer’s approval, but it sure feels like companies are employing techniques to fleece every last cent out of their customers.

Shop safe!

Black Diesel, would you be so kind to PM me because I've got a few questions for you concerning this years Air Gun Show in Newton, North Carolina.

Thanks,
Fleming

As Friday’s meeting trudges along like a slow-motion car crash, I find myself gazing out the window. Grey clouds are hurtling across the sky with a bit too much enthusiasm for my liking, heading towards the setting sun as if they've got a dinner reservation. Inside, my colleagues are droning on about the Local Government Review, while my mind is off in the wilds, contemplating the weekend’s hunting escapades. As the meeting finally fizzles out, they shift to an exhilarating discussion about tomorrow’s weather—grim, apparently—and, shock horror, decide to cancel their golfing plans. Absolute lightweights.

Someone turns to me and asks, “So, what are you up to tomorrow?” “Shooting,” I reply nonchalantly. “In the rain?” they ask, eyebrows halfway up their foreheads. “You bet,” I say with a grin. “You’re bonkers,” they say. “Yep, bonkers for hunting.”

Later that evening, I’m at home, prepping my gear. My loyal Labrador, Alfie, watches my every move like a suspicious housekeeper. I do my usual check on Windguru, a weather website designed for surfers and sailboarders, though I’ve sneakily repurposed it for my hunting exploits. It’s pretty accurate for wind speeds and directions at ground level—absolute gold for airgunners. According to Windguru, it’ll be drizzly at first with a good bit of wind, but things will brighten up later. I hatch my plan accordingly, and as I set the alarm for 4 a.m., my lovely wife groans. “You’re bonkers,” she says. “Yep, that’s me—bonkers for hunting.”

By half-four in the morning, I’m at the farm, yawning like it’s going out of fashion. Dawn is still a good couple of hours away, and the world is as dark as a coal miner’s socks. Alfie’s whining in the backseat, keen as mustard—he lives for this stuff. Me? Well, I wouldn’t say I’m thrilled about standing in a soggy field in the middle of the night, but I soldier on. I step out of the Jeep, greeted by relentless drizzle and a wind that’s doing its best impersonation of a hurricane. Perfect.

Armed with my FAC Airgun Technology Vulcan 3 in .25 calibre, shooting 34 H&N slugs at 960 fps and equipped with an Arken Zulus digital day and night vision scope with a built-in laser rangefinder, I’m ready. After five minutes of standing around like a lemon, my eyes finally adjust to the murky gloom. Shapes start emerging from the blackness—fence posts, saplings... probably not ghosts. We’re in business. Alfie, now practically vibrating with excitement, senses movement before I do. He’s already pulling on the slip, eager to chase something, anything, that moves. I head for the edge of the wood, drop to one knee in the soggy grass, and the dog instantly sits beside me like the professional he occasionally pretends to be.

I flick on the night vision, scanning across the field. A couple of distant white orbs glint back—probably rabbits, but at 160 metres they’re too far away and too close to the woods. Then I spot a closer pair of eyes, ranged 67 metres out. Target acquired. I line up the shot on the unsuspecting rabbit’s head.

Boom. Or rather, not boom, but a polite air rifle pop. Except I forgot two crucial things: the gusty wind and telling Alfie to stay put. Naturally, I miss, and Alfie, ever the optimist, charges off to fetch the non-existent kill. He’s still got his slip lead on, and after a few bounding strides, he steps on it, flipping himself head over tail in a spectacular display of canine acrobatics. He yelps like a banshee, and there we are—me, standing in the dark, not sure whether to laugh or cry. Any rabbits within a 5-mile radius have now scarpered, no doubt cackling in their little warrens.

Alfie limps back to me, thoroughly unimpressed, and we trudge off to the barn to reassess our life choices. Half an hour later, I’m sitting in the barn’s doorway, sheltering from the rain, and wondering why on earth I keep doing this. Pest control in the pitch black, faffing about with air rifles, hands cold, toes squelching—utter madness. But on a good night, when things actually go to plan, it’s quite effective, and besides, my landowners expect me to do it. Yep, I must be bonkers for hunting.

At least I get to enjoy the dawn chorus—a pair of tawny owls saying their goodbyes, rooks flocking noisily to the ploughland, and in the distance, rabbits emerge again as the rain eases up. I let them have their breakfast and head home, followed by a damp and sulking lab.

After a quick breakfast (it’s still only 7:30!), I’m off to another permission for some squirrel hunting. This time, I leave Alfie behind—his pride needs a bit of time to recover.

I switch the Vulcan 3 PCP for my trusty Weihrauch HW97K .177 spring-powered airgun. Love my sub-12 springers.

People often tell me I’m lucky to have so much hunting permission, but as the saying goes, the harder I work, the luckier I get. Since last April, I’ve taken a lot of pests from this estate, especially grey squirrels. The Lady of the estate doesn’t see it that way, though. To her, the greys are still raiding her bird tables, so in her eyes, I might as well be napping in the barn. But nature abhors a vacuum—clear one squirrel, another moves in, like clockwork. I’ve started leaving squirrel tails with Arthur, the gardener, just to show I’m not slacking.

As the sun rises, I spot a grey squirrel from the Jeep on my way in. I quietly park up and slip into the woods, immediately hearing the telltale scrabble of a grey at work. Five yards away. Airgunner’s nightmare—too close. I slowly lower the rifle, hoping to catch it unaware, and miraculously, it runs to the base of the tree where I’m standing. I can’t believe my luck—18 inches from my barrel. One shot, job done. What are the chances? Good start.

I make my way into the woods, on the lookout for rogue squirrels. Along the way, I startle a female roe deer and her fawn, a beautiful sight, though I suspect they’ve been making a nuisance of themselves in the sugar beet.

The stalk through the woodland is a bit like navigating a treacle swamp—slow, deliberate, and rather damp thanks to the morning’s rain. The leaf mulch underfoot is like walking on a bed of soggy sponges. I take five careful steps... stop, listen, and have a good look around. I catch a glimpse of a grey tail, half-buried in its leafy hideaway about 35 meter off.

Now, there’s a fair bit of dodgy advice floating about regarding squirrels and airguns—chiefly, that ‘headshots only’ is the way to go. Utter codswallop, if you ask me. You can just as humanely finish a grey with a heart or lung shot. So, I give this little digger a proper dose behind the shoulder, and down it goes, its head firmly planted in the dirt.

As I’m processing this, I hear a scurrying nearby—another grey, clearly not too impressed by the modest bark of the HW97K. It’s hunkered down behind some scrub. I cock the gun, load another pellet and give the ground a good stomp. Predictably, the grey bolts up a birch trunk and freezes, looking for the source of the commotion. At 25, maybe 30 metres—my primary zero—I line up the centre crosshair. Easy shot.

Venturing further into the wood, I stick to my five-step strategy, paying close attention to every sound. And there it is again—the scrabbling. I navigate around a pine trunk to find the grey buried in its digging, roughly 20 meter away but partially hidden by twigs. It pops out, clutching a beech nut, and leaps onto a fallen branch, right into my crosshairs. Bad move. Terminal move.

By late morning, with the rain now coming down in earnest and not much else stirring, it’s time to call it a day. On the walk back to the Jeep, another grey decides to make an appearance on an ash branch. Even though I’m about ready to drop, it’s another cull.

I leave five tails hanging in a bag by the gardener’s hut. As I drive slowly down the driveway, I can’t help but curse under my breath as I spot more greys cavorting around the woodland edge. I’ll be back, of course. Because I’m bonkers for hunting.

Just got this in from Keystone Airguns and gotta say I'm impressed. The gun seems well made but not fancy which I really like. Compared to my HW30S I'm afraid to use it and get it banged up.

This gun quality wise seems great for the money. Also for being a higher power .22 I got to say the shot cycle feels great. Shooting this compared to my HW30S I now understand what people mean by buzzy and twangy. And I'm not talking about the Cometa lol. Not sure how heavy the trigger is but I have no issues with it at all. Nice and light and good 2 stage. Put some pellets tonight just to get it roughly sighted in with the open sights and found the gun balanced very well. Not really hard to shoot off hand. This was shooting at 10yds with CPHPs just off hand working the windage over to center. For not shooting offhand much in a long time I find it easy to shoot well and put quite a few very close to eachother.

Then this was 4 shots at 20yds off hand. Again pretty good for my skills. I pulled that one down low but still not bad at all.

So far initial impressions are great. I'm looking forward to really breaking it in and getting to know it better. But for a $269 gun, I don't think it can be beat. Ive been kicking the idea of a decent .177 to play with maybe a PCP as i dont have one, but if this gun keeps it up i might go for a USC version of this instead.

Anyone care to PM me or post diagrams of how the V3 air tube is assembled? UGH, I hate to have to ask but I took my 177 Vulcan 3 apart a while back in an attempt to install a depinger. I thought I had everything good to go but I've lost 300fps in velocity. I was shooting 13.43gn pellets over 900fps but now it's down in the 600's. I've taken it apart several times and it seems like the only way it will go back together without leaking air thru the seep hole is in this 600fps configuration. I've removed the depinger but still don't seem to be able to get it back together the right way.
The transfer port is lined up but the gun does seem to make more of a "splat" sound when it fires..... Any thoughts?

I want to sell the rifle after Tony @ Talon Tunes goes thru it but I wanted to resolve this issue before sending it to him.

Does anyone shoot extreme Field Target with a .25 caliber. How about a .22 cal?

I have the tall version of the compressor in the video but other than the orientation they appear to be the same unit. Mine stopped compressing air, all moving parts are working, so I'm assuming an o-ring has failed somewhere.
I'm posting this video for those of you that would like to replace o-rings and so I can find it later.
There are a couple of steps that I wouldn't have done in the correct order the first time around.
Now it's time to hit all the storage spots I might have hidden the o-ring replacement kit for the compressor....

Vevor 4500psi shoebox compressor tear down/rebuild video

Should AGN ad a section for Bintac? The T9 was awesome and this .457 Bintac MCAR is by far the most easy to shoot and accurate big bore airgun I have seen yet. This thing is amazing! The gun shoots itself if you let it (don't hold it too tight). This amazing PCP is the top of the heap when it comes to big bore long range PCP's. There is nothing better in my opinion. At 19 pounds it's not the best for hunting, but if your looking to win big bore airgun competitions, this is your gun. Great PCP sniper rifle, available NOW at Airgun Tactical. Thanks for tuning in! -Nate

I put this kit together intending to do indoor winter league shooting but life won’t allow time. These pistols are nearly new with very limited use. Kit all packs up nicely in a lockable hard case that is included. Includes everything in the pic…less co2. $150 plus shipping.

Looks like a Uragan 3 coming soon...


Goes up to part 5.....

This little PCP has won my heart over by performing consistently on pests and targets. Hundreds of pests down, and counting… It’s understood it’s not a benchrest shooter. But the accuracy still leaves me flabbergasted… My reason for this post? Just finished a casual nighttime plinking session while enjoying a brew. Targets at 25, 40 and 50 yards. Atomic XR with Zulus atop, bipod front no rear rest. Sidewalk chalk, small plastic saline bottles, plastic rats, etc.

Evening all,
I recently went shooting with a friend for the first time and had such a blast (no pun intended). I've been looking into getting myself an air rifle, and am keen to go for a springer, as I've been told this is the best place to start, but I am quite intrigued by the multishot system that quite a few manufacturers offer (Gamo, Milbro, Crosman). I'm interested to hear any thoughts on what these are like, and how they compare to normal single shot springers. Any advice? Cheers!