Has anyone changed the buttstock on their 250Z yet? I have a really good Luth-AR on my Armada that I want to change over, but for the life of me, I can't seem to get this original off the "buffer" tube. I tried just swapping out the whole assemblies but the Armada is MIL Spec and I can only assume the Barra is Commercial because the Armada tube is ever so slightly larger than the Barra's. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Ok. Here it what I did.
Went to General discussion forms.
Jumped to the very first page the back one. I seen some 1969 but that was not right then clicked on there names , and seen 2015 ect. So has this form been around for 10 years man a 10 year celebration is in order. Some of those guys were on here today.
Some only lasted a year. I whish I would have found this 10 years ago.
I'm 64 but have a love for airguns that can't be undone. It all came about when I was 7 then at 13 got that Sheridan blue streak at Monkey Wards.

Shot some JTS 25.39s out of zelos 22 . Ok 890 fps avg. Went on to 22.07 at around 820 fps. Not paying much attention and writing it down in notebook went to JSB 25.39s 770 fps ok … wtf. Shot the JTS 25s again, yup 890 fps. Get the scale out — 18.4 g

I'm experimenting with a .172 cal firearm barrel on my airgun and the guy who was making me ammo is no longer making the same style of slugs he was in the past.
Is there anyone out there that can make .172 cal slugs?

I was shooting, and in the middle of a magazine it just stopped working. Essentially, when the hammer dropped no air was released (as if there was no air in the cylinder). There was just under 3000psi in the cylinder though. There was no air leaking, and I was guessing that a valve was stuck closed. I tried topping off the cylinder to see if that would help, but no luck. I ended up taking it apart to see what was up, and found the small brass cone part of the poppet had broken in two. Thanks to the past here with the parts diagram (Thank you!), I know what to call at least some of these parts.





When I opened it up, the Valve Core Pin was free to slide back and forth through the Exhaust Valve Core, while the little cone bit in the picture above stayed sealed in place against the Exhaust Valve Core. This is why it acted like there was no air in the cylinder - when the hammer hit the Valve Core Pin, it slide though the Exhaust Valve Core, and even though it pushed back the Exhaust Valve Core Sleeve (white polymer part of the poppet) the brass cone bit stayed in place (sealing the valve). I assumed when poppets go bad, the polymer bit would be what breaks, not the brass bit.

The Notos is less than 3 month old, so I contacted Umarex, and we will see what they say. Hopefully they can just send me the tiny part (not ask for the whole airgun to be shipped back).

Before anyone asks, I haven't done any mods, the Notos is all stock. I haven't fired it without pressure in the cylinder (I hadn't ever had it empty since I first got is and filled it). The hammer spring is stock, and I have the hammer set pretty light (would rather have more shots as opposed to more FPS). I admittedly have shot it a lot since I like to sit down in the evenings and shoot 100 pellets of so at a time. I'm not sure how many tins of pellets I have gone through shooting cans in my back yard, but its a fair number. Still surprised how it broke though.

Hopefully I can get the parts quickly. I've really enjoyed the Notos.

My Pathfinder heard about the Atomics’ double kill and wanted to get some: All shots at 30 yards. The chickens pecked the crap out of one starling and made off with a sparrow… There were lots of them pest birds, but I was short of time. I will be punishing them going forwards…

Anodized orange Accutac FC-4 G2 Bipod.
# FCB-G200

Excellent condition, includes factory box.

$275 shipped insured, mainland only.
PayPal FF

Ive decided to do some custom order pouches ive got 1 small as is 4 small ready to be made and 2 large ready to be made i can make them how you want although there will be a delay as once i find out whats wanted then ill make i can add lanyard clasp a leather teather loop or a belt loop or even a belt clip. Currently im out of heavy leather and cant find it reasonably priced so when these are gone i will be done making them for a bit. I also go back to work in march ao my time will be limited thank you all for reading

There is only 1 unfinished small left and the completed small left

.

1.- An aluminium sill to make more repeatable the arm anchoring; and

2.- A scope with a thinner reticle.



Five shots at 87.5 yards:




Should work ….

I took mine out today to shot, and I had the hammer spring cut so it was about 1/2 turn in and was shooting 935fps. It was now shooting 920 or so. I turned the hammer spring gradually, and shot , in all the way until it would not cock and it would not shoot above 925 or so. I have a reg. tester and checked that, and it was about 149BAR steady. I put in a new uncut hammer spring, the one I had in I had to cut about a 1 1/2 coils off to get it slowed down to where I wanted it. Didn't make any difference, and it ( looks like) when I shoot it, there is alot of air coming out of the rifle, I think more that is normal. I'm thinking the valve is bad...and opinions or advice ?Thanks for any advice.

Up for sale is a lightly used daystate mch3 110v compressor. Selling because going to 220v.


$1600 plus shipping paypal f&f or pay fees or local pickup in az.

Look at these insane numbers out of the talonp they were teether. 43.2 gr pellets pellets have more speed than slugs I've noticed maybe because pellets don't have as much friction on the barrel.

I wanted to give an up on this project. Both Coxworkshop and I were interested in swagging and wanted something we and others with some skills and tools could DIY and share the info. We ended up starting with an RCBS Rebel press and making the parts to convert it to a swagger. We've made dies which are maybe more work than most could do so it makes sense to use dies that someone already make and sells. GMI was willing to aid in the project. I sent them CAD files that we will be shared in an open source now. Meanwhile GMI made and sent me a set of parts to be a turn key type thing for someone who has no tools or machine skills.
I purchased the Rebel Press on ebay for $218 shipped. Maybe I got lucky? and here are the parts from GMI. The shaft is hardened and fits the Rebel press great. It is machined for the GMI dies. The knuckle increases leverage so it swagges easily. It has two 6mm set screws for adjusting a solid stop as needed. Then the smaller part is the ejector stop pin. All the other parts needed are the Rebel components.

Up for SALE is my KalibrGun CRICKET II SMOOTH WSA cal. 5.5 (.22). Purchased at Georiga Airguns. Trigger is tuned for about 8oz, and regulator is tuned to about 123. Shoots 18g I found that the Air Arms pellets the best @880fps. Has 2 3- 1/2 tins through it. It's practically new. Does not come with the level.


Will come with 2 mags, 1 fill probe, 2 o-ring reseal kits. Original Box and paperwork.



Looking for $1400 Local Pickup Preferred. Alpharetta GA



The only reason I'm selling is I never use it and have moved on to other hobbies. The one picture is how I had it setup.



Buyer pays shipping will do paypal family & friends. Would prefer local pickup in Atlanta but can s
hip as well

@SpindleB Posted about this AF knockoff several days ago and a few of us agreed to be be guinea pigs by pulling the trigger

Mine arrived today and so giving initial thoughts. I'll quantify this first by saying I've owned a few dozen 'real' AirForce Airguns over the years and am quite familiar with the platform.

When ordering from the website, I got a notification of the order as well as a notification when it shipped. 5 minutes after delivery, I also received an email notifying me of the same. Shipping was from California.

The box arrived securely packed, but not double boxed.


Upon opening, this is what I was met with...everything seemed secure and well packed.



Removed the gun from it's wrapper

First thoughts. It feels nice. I cant help but get the feeling of 'cheap', but that may be bias. I had a 'Pinty' scope and it was useless. Still for $250 shipped (thereabouts), it looks good and uses a Huben regulator. Upon filling the gun for a leak check, I saw the reg was set at 14MPA according to the gauge. The pressure gauge was as close as any compared to the large gauge on my fill tank. There was a copious amount of silicon grease on internals so will need to clean some of that off. I heard no obvious leaking when filling the gun, but the test will be overnight. I like the frame design better than the AF guns. The skeletonized look and the pic rails are a welcome addition. The buttpad is actually padded and feels nice.

The moderator is proprietary. I don't know what threads it uses, but a DonnyFL wont fit it. The moderator is removable and is baffled, but quite small.


I really like the bolt on this opposed to the arrangement used by AirForce. At the time of pics, I'd not cleaned grease.



The power wheel has no numbers or indicators other than the screw and hashes


But it is cut out on the other side of the frame so you can more easily turn it and see from the other side, a welcome departure from the AF frame.


There was a manual, some spare o rings and other bits included.



After filling to 3kpsi (I guess I should have read to find out the SWP, but assumed at least 3k), I went outside to do a smoke test.
First impressions:
Cocking is ROUGH. It did smooth out a little over a couple shots, but initially pretty rough. In fact, closing the bolt the first time it 'caught' and pushed the tophat just enough to send the first pellet out the barrel WITHOUT the hammer being released. Good thing I had it pointed in a safe direction. Subsequent shots were smoother, but not what I'd call 'smooth' by any means.
A stock AF trigger is rough. Serviceable but rough. This trigger is worse by far. I don't know if it will break in or needs some polishing or both. Will see later how this translates to accuracy.
There doesn't appear to be much of a leade in on the barrel, if one at all. Pellets were tight and I could feel the rifling engaging at the very start of pushing in a pellet.
The short moderator didn't do a lot, at least on power level 3, according to the hash marks. It wasn't overly loud, but I imagine a lot of folks will want to put a real moderator on it. It doesn't bother me and I like the look of it so may keep it as is.

It sounded like it was putting out decent power, but will verify later. I'll mount a scope on it and do some chrony testing and shoot some groups and see how goes when it warms up just a little more outside!
I'd sold off all my cheaper scopes at the Hickory show a couple years ago and so I'll be putting an Arken on this gun for testing. Either the Arken will make this gun better, or the gun will end up making the Arken worse... I'm not sure yet.
Kidding aside, first impressions were on par with the price point, I guess. Should be easy enough to smooth out the cocking with some polishing and such. The trigger.... I'm not sure yet, but usually there is 'something' that can be done. The true test will be if it can hit what I'm aiming at. More to come later today!

So how's the weather in Boogaloosa? Waxahathcee? Tuscaloosa? Have the iguanas thawed?

72 degrees and sunshine on the desert today. Tee shirts from 1 'till 5. Shotgun shells to 80 yards with the air rifle. Out to 200 with the new rimfire. The first fine day in a few weeks.

Spring is almost here! Hang in there! This sh!it will not last forever

I'm looking for an EASY to cock, low powered, .22 springer for the grandkids. Hopefully one that will shoot cheap CPHPs accurately? Side lever may be considered too as I have several young female granddaughters but I am not sure a sidelever is any easier to cock than a break barrel? Not looking for Olympic quality. I'm a PCP guy at heart but would like to get them started in the sport and not have to fill guns every 10 minutes. I'm open to suggestions.

Just to let you know that Cape Fear Airguns opened its doors around Thanksgiving. It is a small storefront in Wilmington NC and has room to grow. The street address is 210 Old Dairy Road.
The owner said that he used to be a tech for another company before starting his business. We talked for quite some time and he does seem to be very knowledgeable . I hope his business takes off because we need a store like that around here.

My number 1 bucket list with regards to ag's was adding a SuperGrade to the collection. Number two was testing the SG on the range to see how it compared to the Model C. A tall order given the later is the most accurate of all my vintage pumpers.

The gun was tested from a bench at 10m. First with a traditional scope mount and second with a handgun scope/scout mount. Pros and cons of both are as follows;

Traditional scope mount;

Pros:
Much more pleasing with regards to aesthetics.

Cons:
Difficult to access loading port.
Difficult to cycle gun beyond 3 pumps w/o placing free hand over scope.
Repetitive zero placement of cross-hairs impossible.
Sight acquisition lags.

Scout mount;

Pros:
loading port access remains the same.
Cycling gun with proper free hand placement remains the same.
Repetitive zero placement of cross-hairs much more consistent.
Spontaneous sight acquisition.

Cons:
Much less pleasing with regards to aesthetics.

Perhaps the most limiting factor between the two optic configurations is zero placement. The scout mount allows the user to place the scope at the exact distance where the "scope shadow" is just beyond the circumference of the field of view. Extremely important for precise repetitious cross-hair placement. In addition, and just as important, the scout mount allows the user to use the turret caps as an additional aid to true-up the cross-hairs, which is impossible with a traditional scope mount.

Conclusion:
When compared to the Model C, the SG has a much more cumbersome trigger design. It's ridges/grooves grip the trigger finger and leaves little room for finger placement/pull error, whereas the Model C trigger is smooth and much more forgiving. However, the SG's trigger has what could be called a two stage trigger which is certainly an advantage over the Model C. If the SG had the same trigger design as that of the Model C it would be the clear winner. So for now, the scale tips in favor of the Model C simply because of it's trigger design.

The last photo shows what the Model C is capable of.

My kitchen table has alot of my small projects, printer and electrical shop are in the house.


Airsoft cannon for boat, 50 rounds per socond, boat.

Remote trigger, for a video project.

I just wanted to share how excited I am to have just ordered the Hatsan Blitz .30 BP. I cannot wait! I’ve read tons amd watched hours of it and good, bad, whatever I’m jazzed. Ok, that’s all.

I was on AOA site a earlier this evening and wanted to look at the Atomic XR.
I saw the Pathfinder but no Atomic.
Too late to call and ask, but has the Atomic XR been discontinued?
I am wanting a gun in that size and power range and by all postings here the Atomic was the best available.
If you have any suggestions for a different gun I would appreciate it.
L.Leon, I a hoping to hear from you

Over the past year or so I have polished all the barrels on my air guns, except for my don cothran which is already super smooth. I did it to my .25 huben k1 and my .22 k1 before I sold it. Recently I did it to my .46 challenger bullpup as well. All these guns saw improved shot velocity consistency afterwards.

A few days ago I decided to do it to my gk1. The gun has been fairly accurate in the past but tended to get inaccurate as the barrel leaded and sometimes was randomly innaccurate, i would often miss a shot and think it was bad form or impatience but now i dont think so. It seemed to foul after far fewer rounds than my other guns. I am very comfortable doing barrel alignments on hubens so I finally took apart my gk1 to polish the barrel. When I took it apart I noticed what seemed to be a dark ring inside the barrel. Didn't know what to make of that and proceeded with the polish.

After polishing I naturally looked through the barrel to see how shiney it was and noticed 4 distinct ring indentations in the barrel. They definitely were there already, no way polishing put them there. No way shooting slugs did it, no way the carbon fiber un-jammimg rod or cleaning rod did it, not that i can imagine anyway. I asked Kelly, he thinks it's a manufacturer defect. I do have only the 5th one ever made. Trouble is, I've had it over a year already. Hoping I get some help. Anyone else ever see such a thing or know how it could have happened?

Here's some screenshots of some videos i took of it.

Anyway, after the polish I shot some groups today. Just terrible. This slug can hit 1 cm targets fairly easily at 50 yards out of my .25 k1, and others who got them for their gk1s said they did well. Not now. These groups were from a full rest at a mere 15 yards, and i took my time and aimed carefully and consistently, using the iron sights can not account for how terrible these groups are: